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 1 
 on: Today at 06:23:57 AM 
Started by magnumman - Last post by Richie
Nitrous!!!!! or a supercharger/Turbo. Come on man , next question LOL.

 2 
 on: Yesterday at 06:31:44 PM 
Started by magnumman - Last post by magnumman
Just as the title says.....

Seems like it has a bit of pep in the higher RPM's but down low it suffers.

I'm looking for and guts that can be had Laughing

 3 
 on: Yesterday at 06:14:09 PM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by magnumman
I will keep an eye out.

 4 
 on: Yesterday at 06:12:17 PM 
Started by RamIt97 - Last post by magnumman
Thanks for the response guys.  I have a master ball joint tool kit that I picked up on Amazon.  I used it on the top but the bottom one was a bear.  I was worried about missing the snap ring which is the reason I originally posted.  It comes with my Moog lower ball joint so I looked hard for it but I didn't see it.  I tried to press it out but it wouldn't budge.  Decided to add some heat from the torch and bam out it came.  The height of the original lower ball joint is the same height as the Moog.  The original has a snap ring groove too but isn't used so I am not worried about that anymore. 

Now I have another dilemma.  I want to do things right and replace the axle seals but I see its a lot of work on the Dana 44.  I bought a special tool for the CAD side but the driver side looks like I have to pull the diff to get in to drive the seal in from the inside.  Why don't they build them like a normal axle with the seals on the end.  I am tempted to look at the seals with my inspection camera and if they look ok I might just chance it and put it back together without replacing the seals but it does bother me some.  It would save me a lot of time.  Any opinions?

Also just for the record.  I bought some Kroil for this job at the beginning but to be honest I haven't really noticed anything more that good cheap can PB Blaster can do.  I bought the big can so I can test it out and give it a true test.

You are correct, you have to remove the diff to replace the left inner seal.  I agree, its an overly complex design.  The inspection camera is a great idea especially on a truck that has its front diff fluid replaced regularly. But to have the seal fail later on may be bittersweet, nobody can tell.

Kroil seems to take a bit longer than PB but in my experiences, I've broken less bolts using it "but I waited longer lol".  If your into Antique or restoring slightly rusty Firearms Kroil has worked better than Hoppy's for me.  It also seems to work better on longterm storage of firearms. 


 5 
 on: Yesterday at 02:59:55 PM 
Started by RamIt97 - Last post by RamIt97
Thanks for the response guys.  I have a master ball joint tool kit that I picked up on Amazon.  I used it on the top but the bottom one was a bear.  I was worried about missing the snap ring which is the reason I originally posted.  It comes with my Moog lower ball joint so I looked hard for it but I didn't see it.  I tried to press it out but it wouldn't budge.  Decided to add some heat from the torch and bam out it came.  The height of the original lower ball joint is the same height as the Moog.  The original has a snap ring groove too but isn't used so I am not worried about that anymore. 

Now I have another dilemma.  I want to do things right and replace the axle seals but I see its a lot of work on the Dana 44.  I bought a special tool for the CAD side but the driver side looks like I have to pull the diff to get in to drive the seal in from the inside.  Why don't they build them like a normal axle with the seals on the end.  I am tempted to look at the seals with my inspection camera and if they look ok I might just chance it and put it back together without replacing the seals but it does bother me some.  It would save me a lot of time.  Any opinions?

Also just for the record.  I bought some Kroil for this job at the beginning but to be honest I haven't really noticed anything more that good cheap can PB Blaster can do.  I bought the big can so I can test it out and give it a true test.

 6 
 on: Yesterday at 01:34:42 PM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by donram360
looking for some old school 15X7 or 15X8  Cragars, Keystone Klassic, or something similar. 5 bolt, 4-1/2  (Ford or Mopar) pattern. these for my 78 Sport Fury.

 7 
 on: Yesterday at 01:32:37 PM 
Started by magnumman - Last post by donram360
my fastest wouldn't impress anyone,  driving anyways.... somewhere around 105... riding shotgun, I've been to 125 in a built up 70 Barracuda....

 8 
 on: Yesterday at 01:30:49 PM 
Started by magnumman - Last post by donram360
what ever became of this? humpty Dumpty back together again?

 9 
 on: Yesterday at 01:30:12 PM 
Started by 98Dak408 - Last post by donram360
yup. they want to sell you old "LA" ones every time. That is one part that I do go to the dealer for, they are only a couple of bucks (like $5-6ish) each.  Only because nobody else seems to be able to come up with the right ones. I have an extra or 2 around here.... somewhere. and 2 318 Dakotas that I need to do the valve cover gaskets and intake plenum gaskets on.... so if I can fin them they will be used soon. If not... another trip to the stealership.

 10 
 on: Yesterday at 01:27:49 PM 
Started by RamIt97 - Last post by donram360
I have been thinking about your post since I saw it... I have done this very job on "a few" of these particular trucks but it has been a couple years since the last one... As I remember, that ball joint has a couple of applications, and in this one I don't believe that the ball joint protrudes far enough thru there to reach the snap ring groove.... with the flange of the ball joint bottomed out. If you can get it in there use it... if as I suspect it doesn't poke thru that far (the casting where the ball joint is pressed into is pretty thick)  don't worry about it.

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