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 1 
 on: Today at 01:37:21 PM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by donram360
I'm in the process of collecting parts to fix up this truck how I want it to be, just got an NOS 2 barrel carb (remember this is an inline 6) and a corresponding manifold, a set of NOS rods for the block that I have in the machine shop, in about to send the cam out for a regrind, and more.
I have a really good 1 barrel for it now (NOT the original, I definitely commissioned all the failed oem emissions crap) but my son's truck fell flat so I had to rob my good carburetor to get his truck going. I wasn't wanting to put the 2 BBL on yet, was gonna save that for the fresh engine.
But today I was in the garage welding on my utility trailer, and some guy came by that I have never seen before, started asking me about getting some gravel for my driveway, then started asking me about my truck, and wants to buy it, then the driver who brought him by gets out and started asking a million questions about it.
I told them that I just got it a couple of months back and did so to fix up for myself, not to resell. These idiots would not back off, both in mid 60s ( at least)
Being as how I was under the trailer trying to position a patch of metal on the underside of the fender and starting to weld it in (not enjoying the shower of Sparks) I really got caught off guard by them and when asked what I would have to get for it in order to sell it I shot them a number too low, more than I paid but with work done to date and parts accumulated so far I can't really let it go for that amount. The driver starts asking what time I get home tomorrow, he's supposed to be by with cash (not by my request but by the pushiness of the pair) tomorrow.
Why is it that when I WANT to sell something I can't get anyone interested in whatever it is to save my life? I told them of one very much like mine on Craigslist about 45 minutes away for double the price that I shot out. I can't replace what I have for that amount.

 2 
 on: July 06, 2020, 01:52:21 PM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by donram360
For those of you that haven't slogged thru the thread on my Durango and all the problems with an engine overhaul I'll save you the grief. read it if you want, its a few threads below this one.
Suffice it to say that everything that could have gone wrong with this build, did so. this was NOT my first ever engine build// though when I did that several years before I had many less problems.
just goes to show you can never be too careful. and be careful who you source parts from, and who you trust to include their hands in all your hard work. the only overhaul I have done and had any problems at all///   

anyways that leaves me with a 2000 360 short block sitting on a dolley waiting for engine stand space, so I can do an autopsy and correct the problems, and do a "Tim Taylor-- more power"  power improvement vs a stock 360...... 

My son also has a fresh 360, that we did some time back, that he wanted to do his own "more power" upgrade to.... so, he turned his engine into a 408. so that leaves me his nearly fresh rotating assembly  collecting dust.... the only potential problem is that his 360 is/was an LA 360 from the 1970s,, not a Magnum. His build, like mine was 30-over. but he used flat top pistons, with 4 "eyebrow" valve reliefs the only deviation from stock. instead of what I think was the worst handicap they could have done to an engine. I always wondered why every 360, whether LA or Magnum came from the factory, crippled by dished pistons? when the 318s didn't?

I want to use these 30-over, flat top pistons from my son's LA 360, in my 30-over Magnum block. I have a great Magnum crank here that could be donated to the cause (used but excellent shape) as the original crank in my block "should be"  but has to be checked because of the slurry of bearing material that came out with the "break in" oil, because I didn't know that I would have an injector or 2, stick wide freakin open, shortly after this engine went together and wash out the rings..... injectors that had "just" been rebuilt by a Bosch factory authorized service center.... that have since found their way to the trash bin.

His LA crank, as well, is in perfect shape. not a lot of miles on that rebuild either. but more than the 6 miles that this block went.....
I have heard the external balance between an LA and a Magnum 360, is a different amount of balance.  could I use the Magnum crank with the LA pistons and rods? or the whole crank rods and pistons from the LA motor?  What combo would you use?
I guess I could just use the LA 360 harmonic balancer and torque converter.  but Id like to balance it "neutral" while I am at it, like a 318 is....   would be easier for when I go to put it into which ever vehicle I have that it would find itself being put into. Nows the time while it is apart.

Cam and heads up for discussion, to be dealt with later, once the short block is together. not sure where this engine would go, have 4 possibilities in the driveway right now. 2 carbureted and 2 injected.
they are.... 96 Dakota club cab 4wd, the original 01 Durango this short block was supposed to be sitting in, am 80 Volare or an 85 D150 pickup.

NOT looking to build a race car, could wind up as a tow rig or street toy depending on which vehicle I decide to plop it into.

 3 
 on: July 06, 2020, 01:22:49 PM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by donram360
well an update. at 125k, I came out one day 2 weeks ago at lunch to a puddle under this turd. checked radiator level and got it home. Guess what? the T chain cover gasket the overpriced shop put in for the PO at 91k has failed again. the timing chain cover was found to be "ate out" roughly behind the alternator where the leak was coming from. Not the 1st time I have seen that on a Magnum motor. was almost never an issue on the old LA engines.  so I pulled it all apart down to the timing chain, and discovered the tensioner just about "used up" on the slack side of the chain.... meaning ALOT of chain stretch and a retarded cam.  Unlike these overpriced clowns that used to "maintain" this truck, I replaced everything that could possibly cause me grief that I touched in this job... New (Double roller!) timing chain, new tensioner, different timing cover with no pitting, new water pump, new bypass hose and new heater hoses (I did the upper + lower when I replaced the radiator from hitting that deer so don't need those again yet)  and upon getting it back together I took it for a ride.... I cant believe how much zip this thing picked up just from that timing chain..... still  only a 6 cyl but much better than it was.

 4 
 on: June 12, 2020, 06:19:03 AM 
Started by RockAuto - Last post by RockAuto
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 5 
 on: June 04, 2020, 07:21:14 PM 
Started by Overlook68 - Last post by magnumman
I hope this helps you.  Let us know.

 6 
 on: June 04, 2020, 03:42:49 AM 
Started by Overlook68 - Last post by Overlook68
360 Magnum crate engine has a Mopar MPFI kit on a M1 intake and a 4bbl throttle body.  It's basically a 2000 era model fuel injection system that Mopar created to function for crate engines.   The IAC opens up when it should close down and slow the idle speed.  Either the prior owner changed the pins on the connection or the factory miswired the kit.     The IAC has two motor stepper.  So I assume I just need to change / swap the motor function. 

Could anybody offer any advice or wiring diagram?   This is a four pin IAC plug and I think each motor has a specific feed side and control side.  So its not as simple as a positive side and negative side. 

 7 
 on: June 03, 2020, 03:04:09 PM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by donram360
It's running and driving again, new exhaust manifold, distributor, carb ( to get rid of the Lean Burn primitive computer system) and a complete underhood rewire job including adding in an underhood fuse box in place of the original fusible links of which 1/2 of them were melted. As was the front cat (this truck used to have 2 of them, not no more.

Runs nice and smooth, cruises nice but needs "more power" I have another slant 6 on a stand that is headed for the machine shop hopefully before the weekend. I want to work with the 6 instead of swapping in an 8 because the trans, the radiator, and the motor mounts won't work on an 8 and I don't want to have to go find ones that will. I can easily double the power of the original engine with some porting, maybe oversized valves, a head shave and a cam regrind. Which would give this little 6 more power than a stock 360 had back when this truck was new. But while I wait for that to get done I have to get after the back brakes, I hear noise from the driver side drum.

 8 
 on: May 29, 2020, 04:23:44 PM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by magnumman
Good to hear.  1 quart every 1000 miles isn't bad. 

 9 
 on: May 28, 2020, 11:03:57 AM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by donram360
Running good, but likes to snack on oil about a quart in 1,000
Running 10w40 in it like I do with every vehicle that I have ever had.
I did the aluminum plenum plate when I put this engine in.
But even on a new vehicle (new enough to still have factory warranty left the manufacturers won't do a thing for you at that rate of consumption.
Eventually I will get that 1st engine that I rebuilt for this thing back on the stand and apart, those bad injectors washed out the rings in 2 cylinders and thinned my oil, which took out my bearings, which was the slurry that came out with the break in oil. Hopefully rings and bearings will be all that short block needs. That one will then be shrink wrapped and saved in case I need it later on.
 as long as this thing doesn't become a rusty hulk or get wrecked, I will have it to it's grave. I don't care how many miles show on the dash
It's not $40k no more like it was when new it's still in good shape overall, and I can't afford a newer version.

 10 
 on: May 28, 2020, 10:03:29 AM 
Started by donram360 - Last post by donram360
Putting a dorman (yeah Chinese but I didn't buy it, the truck's owner did) stainless steel brake lines kit on a rusty Chevy truck, then discovered that the back brakes were shot and haven't worked in forever, pads seized in caliper brackets. Had to also replace backing plates, (splash shields) as they were almost non-existent, plus Ebrake shoes since lining had disintegrated due to age and rust/ had to bead blast caliper brackets, and caliper bracket mount piece to get the fragments of what was left of the splash shields so everything sat flush and square again... Should have just replaced the rear end cover because of the time spent factor, I put that in my bead blast cabinet too. Waiting for the primer to dry on that.

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