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Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  Street Tires, Suspension & Chassis (Moderators: donram360, adamsredlines)  |  Topic: Leaf spring clamps 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Leaf spring clamps  (Read 4059 times)
'98R/T
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« on: February 07, 2005, 07:22:24 AM »

What are your thoughts/opinions/views on leaf spring clamps?  I came across some instructions to make a home made set and am considering making them once the weather gets a little nicer (and I get my truck back from the body shop  Sad  ).  But I've never heard anybody say good or bad things about them.
TIA
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devilbrad
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« Reply #1 on: February 07, 2005, 07:36:22 AM »

They are very popular amongst old school Mopar drag racers, clamp each front leaf (ahead of axle) and none behind axle.  Effectivly turns the front leaf half into a "solid" ladder bar, and the rear half does the "spring" work.  Eliminates front spring wrap and allows rear spring seperation for planting tires.  As far as ride quality not sure never done it LOL
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'98R/T
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« Reply #2 on: February 07, 2005, 07:59:21 AM »

Hmm.....so probably not a good idea for a daily driven truck that is occasionally auto-crossed, right?
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Comp Cams 1.7rr's
Mopar Perf "R/T Cam"
Ported "kegger" intake
APS Plenum Pan
MP Double Roller Timing chain
Hotchkis 2" drop
Suncoast Creations ram-air hood w/ heat extractors
Flex-a-lite e-fan
Superchips
high volume oil pump
ported T/B
Gibson headers
Magnaflow Y-pipe and muffler w/ o2 simm
NGK plugs
MSD 8.5 wires & Ign. coil
relocated IAT
Transgo Shift Kit
Xenon roll pan
clear corners/black tails
Checkmate hard tonneau (flush mount)

http://media.putfile.com/Burnout-71  Thumb
devilbrad
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« Reply #3 on: February 07, 2005, 08:00:32 AM »

Negative ghostrider.   Very Happy
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tobs408
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« Reply #4 on: February 07, 2005, 10:12:51 AM »

i have done this to my 93, and it was amazing at how it had no more wheel hop and it actually 60 ft'd better by like .1 it wont change the way it daily drives, mine was always stiff riding.... it should help in therory in autocross, it will stiffen up the back end and help it plant more and not have so much body roll...\
i have also heard that is you spring clamp you should put two on each side, and put the clamp on the leaf steps.. hth
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'98R/T
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« Reply #5 on: February 07, 2005, 11:30:36 AM »

Wellllllllll...............it's not like I'm gonna be out anything, other than a Saturday afternoon, if I give 'em a try.  I had also heard that there should be 2 clamps per leaf spring (one before and one after the wheel).  I might try that the next time the wife works a weekend and I've go the time.  Smile
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Comp Cams 1.7rr's
Mopar Perf "R/T Cam"
Ported "kegger" intake
APS Plenum Pan
MP Double Roller Timing chain
Hotchkis 2" drop
Suncoast Creations ram-air hood w/ heat extractors
Flex-a-lite e-fan
Superchips
high volume oil pump
ported T/B
Gibson headers
Magnaflow Y-pipe and muffler w/ o2 simm
NGK plugs
MSD 8.5 wires & Ign. coil
relocated IAT
Transgo Shift Kit
Xenon roll pan
clear corners/black tails
Checkmate hard tonneau (flush mount)

http://media.putfile.com/Burnout-71  Thumb
ticats
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« Reply #6 on: February 10, 2005, 03:04:20 PM »

'98R/T ... 2 clamps per spring, both before the wheel.  I can't remember the measurements but, if tomorrow isn't snowing, I measure where I put mine and post.
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ticats, ontario, canada.
1997 Dakota CC Sport, 5.2L, 44RE, 4.56SG, race weight 4,175lb, 13.76 @ 99.65
'98R/T
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« Reply #7 on: February 11, 2005, 02:56:48 AM »

Quote from: ticats
'98R/T ... 2 clamps per spring, both before the wheel.  I can't remember the measurements but, if tomorrow isn't snowing, I measure where I put mine and post.

Thanks man.  I have some instructions/directions somewhere at the house, but any advice/tips you can add or offer are more than welcome.  
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Comp Cams 1.7rr's
Mopar Perf "R/T Cam"
Ported "kegger" intake
APS Plenum Pan
MP Double Roller Timing chain
Hotchkis 2" drop
Suncoast Creations ram-air hood w/ heat extractors
Flex-a-lite e-fan
Superchips
high volume oil pump
ported T/B
Gibson headers
Magnaflow Y-pipe and muffler w/ o2 simm
NGK plugs
MSD 8.5 wires & Ign. coil
relocated IAT
Transgo Shift Kit
Xenon roll pan
clear corners/black tails
Checkmate hard tonneau (flush mount)

http://media.putfile.com/Burnout-71  Thumb
ticats
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« Reply #8 on: February 11, 2005, 03:18:57 AM »

'98R/T ... looks like it'll be sunny but cooold.  I'll get out there when it warms up a bit :-)

Get a hold of some thin hard rubber, cut to size, 2 per clamp, and place them on each side of the spring between the spring and clamps before tightening.  This will prevent the clamps from "walking" along the spring when launching.  I bought some inexpensive, plain rubber tire flaps and cut it up to size.  I also used grade 8 bolts and tightened the heck out them :-)

The clamps will stiffen up the ride a little but will keep the tire planted on the streets.  It's subjective but the ride is not nearly as stiff as going to a stiffer rear shock.
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ticats, ontario, canada.
1997 Dakota CC Sport, 5.2L, 44RE, 4.56SG, race weight 4,175lb, 13.76 @ 99.65
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« Reply #9 on: February 11, 2005, 04:41:04 AM »

Ive been meaning to do this too but I have had my plate full for a long time. Embarassed
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ticats
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« Reply #10 on: February 11, 2005, 04:45:54 AM »

Here's approx. where my spring clamps are put.  Adjust according to your particular setup.

Driver"s side:  From middle of eye to front edge of the forward clamp, 11".  This one clamps three leafs.  From front edge of the forward clamp to front edge of the rear clamp, 3".  This one clamps 4 leafs.

Pass. side:  From middle of eye to front edge of the forward clamp, 9".  From front edge of the forward clamp to front edge of the rear clamp, 6".

The driver's side front clamp is at a different location than the pass. side because of an oem "clamp" located such that if placed forward of the oem clamp it tended to slip off the third leaf when the rear spring was placed under load so I put it just to the rear and up close to the oem clamp.  For some reason, the pass. side is different (?).  The idea is to place the clamp so that it is as close to the end of bottom leaf spring as you can without it coming off it when under load.

The rubber strips that I cut from the tire flap are 1/4" thick but anything between 1/8" to 1/4" should work.  My home-made clamps are 1" wide but I cut the rubber wider than that, maybe 1 1/2", so that there is some overlap.  This prevents the clamp from "rolling off" the rubber when the clamp is tightened or when the leaf was under tremendous load.  HTH.
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ticats, ontario, canada.
1997 Dakota CC Sport, 5.2L, 44RE, 4.56SG, race weight 4,175lb, 13.76 @ 99.65
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« Reply #11 on: February 12, 2005, 06:29:36 AM »

I've used these on my '98.  You can pick 'em up for $10-15 from an auto parts store; got mine at Autozone, zinc plated.  They helped wheel hop, and helped plant the rear end, and stiffen the rear a little bit, but not too bad.  You can put 'em on and take them off in a couple minutes a side, so why not just have them on hand?  I like them much better than the more expensive Lakewood traction bars I tried, they're ten times faster to put on or take off, mine are zinc plated so they don't rust, and they don't excite kids in Civics at the stoplights like my yellow lakewoods did.  

http://tiborkun.cybertarp.com/Dakota/SpringClamps.htm
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« Reply #12 on: October 06, 2018, 11:58:55 PM »

Classic thread of the day - one of our VERY early threads.  I don't think the site had been up a week.
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