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Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  Street Tires, Suspension & Chassis (Moderators: donram360, adamsredlines)  |  Topic: Wheel Bearing Hubs: You Get What You Pay For 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Wheel Bearing Hubs: You Get What You Pay For  (Read 966 times)
98Dak408
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« on: October 30, 2016, 04:03:18 AM »

I did a front pad and rotor swap on my '90 Dakota 4X4 the other day and realized the front wheel bearings were shot.  Since I don't expect to get a few more months out of this high mileage Michigan truck, as it is deteriorating every year and I am reluctant to put too much money into it, I bought cheap Chinese bearing hubs from Rockauto for less than half the price of the regular ones.  They installed fine but when trying to install the dust caps I wasn't able to install either side.  The driver's side ID for the dust cap was too small and the passenger's side ID for the dust cap was too large.  Poor machining quality control.  I didn't feel like pulling everything apart again...and screw around trying to ship them back, etc.  Since I drive this truck day-by-day on a kiss-and-a-promiise basis, I left the dust caps off.  If I get another two months out of this truck I will be happy. Nevertheless, you do tend to get what you pay for.   
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dakman
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« Reply #1 on: October 30, 2016, 07:36:30 AM »

So true.
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Richie
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« Reply #2 on: October 30, 2016, 01:57:49 PM »

Oh yea you no that is true.
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Big a** supercharged 4.7L HO, cammed, Custom made Supercharger COG drive system, 72mm F&B throttle body, ROSS ceramic coated pistons, Billet H beam rods, 1st set of race prepped big valves heads W/ behive springs, Custom one off sheet metal intake, Modified Edelbrock Mustang intake elbow, ATI super dampner, 3,000 Edge racing billet stall converter, meth injected, SCT tuned, 60# injectors, Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump, Aeromotive -12 Fuel Filter, Boost reference FPR, Custom fuel cell, Braided stainless line and AN fittings, Aeromotive Billet fuel controller,  2 bar map, Turbo Smart Race Port BOV, 180d* T stat, True dual exhuast, Built tranny W/ deep trans pan, built transfer case, 275 60 R17 rubber.
donram360
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« Reply #3 on: October 30, 2016, 02:43:33 PM »

at least you went into it not expecting much....
I had to replace my inner and outer bearings and races (been a while since I had to knock out a set of races from a rotor) on my 92 2wd a few days ago as it was just starting to howl.... pass side outer bearing rollers were pitted just on 1/2 the roller, the 1/2 towards the small end of the taper. When I pulled them and put them into the solvent tank to clean and inspect, I could barely but faintly read "CHINA" on the inner race, so being a '92 truck, I know the bearings that I removed weren't originals.   
I asked for name brand at the parts store, I got "National" which has been around forever. and on the box label? made in china... not happy.
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magnumman
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« Reply #4 on: October 30, 2016, 05:20:54 PM »

Suran wrap and a rubber band will hold the grease in, haha.  Well it works for a beer I want to save for later.
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

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RamIt97
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« Reply #5 on: October 29, 2017, 10:48:38 AM »

98Dak408 at least your truck came with dust caps.  My 97 1500 has never had them since new.  I think they expected the rim to cover the axle nut.  When I replaced my bearings I gave it a quick shot of paint even though it will still rust in the Minnesota winter.  I'm on a Moog kick lately so I replaced everything I could with it.
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