Bionicdodge.Com
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
November 17, 2019, 11:08:56 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
   

99256 Posts in 14258 Topics by 2137 Members
Latest Member: ssteve/t
* Home Help Search Gallery Calendar Login Register
Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  3.9/5.2/5.9 (Moderators: Lynn, 98Dak408)  |  Topic: well finally my Durango runs again.... 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5 Go Down Print
Author Topic: well finally my Durango runs again....  (Read 8153 times)
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2937


« on: November 13, 2016, 05:34:44 PM »

whew... what a relief...
started right up like a truck that hasn't been sitting more than a day.... not even a lifter tick, either. (been sitting about 5 months)
When it 1st  started though, it barely wanted to run and would not rev over ~500 rpm.... went out and turned the distributor about 15-20* and that made the difference...ran smooth and revved fine. But even then,  once I had it warmed up and went to set the sync, I was at -21 while the parameter on the other screen said "Current sync OK, but " I sure don't think that -21 was "OK".....

I have been dibbling and dabbling at reassembly, since Friday when I got home with the EQ heads and have been working "scared and paranoid" on it, ever since I rotated it with the timing chain lined up all screwy, and bent 4 pushrods and all 8 exh valves... can't afford any more screw ups.... that one had to be right up there with my worst ever.....

I still have the original engine sitting on the ground in the garage, the engine that I rebuilt was one that I picked up on CL...
I pulled one head from the old engine and wow, cannot believe minimal ridge and original  cross hatch still visible with 258,470 miles...
oil pressure was starting to bounce around and at the end, my main bearings got noisey especially at startup.  that one may find its way into either my Wrangler or my Volare eventually after I go thru that one..... my kid is eyeballing it for one of his old trucks....

I cannot put a price as far as how much this cost me to do, between parts already on hand from past buys and horse trades,  plus reciepts lost and eaten by the puppy,  plus all the extra "might as wells" along the way.... these  included a trans overhaul while I had the truck apart, new Walker SS muffler and Magnaflow cat (I had been getting some cat efficiency codes for the last couple of years that I had to "band aid", even with new O2s when those started)  both new O2 sensors (again) , sent the starter and alternator out to the starter shop "just because" and more. and 1 more "might as well", when I found that the heads would have to come back off, instead of fixing them (I have the parts on hand to have done so, even!)  I went out and bought a pair of fully assembled EQ heads.... all I know is that by doing everything except the machine work myself it was a he11uva lot less costly than taking it in to "have" it done....

I'm glad that I went thru the trans, saw some chunks out of the rear band and a few of the clutches, would not have been long before it would have died....

For now everything is bone stock, have a few minor bolt on mods in the works once I am thru with break in.... I think it is quieter than at any time since I bought it, at present.

Logged
magnumman
Site Owner
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4401



WWW
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2016, 06:33:16 PM »

Im happy to hear your happy with the final product!
Logged

2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2937


« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2016, 01:56:10 AM »

Im happy to hear your happy with the final product!
can't say it's "final" yet...... always something to do....
Logged
chris
Bionic Newbie

Offline Offline

Posts: 61



« Reply #3 on: November 14, 2016, 04:22:52 PM »

What kind of scan tool were you using/would you recommend for setting the fuel sync. When I rebuilt mine I just eyeballed everything and turn the distributor until it started and would run fine. I'm sure it could use some tweaking though.
Logged

"I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me." --MOOG
magnumman
Site Owner
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4401



WWW
« Reply #4 on: November 14, 2016, 05:21:17 PM »

What kind of scan tool were you using/would you recommend for setting the fuel sync. When I rebuilt mine I just eyeballed everything and turn the distributor until it started and would run fine. I'm sure it could use some tweaking though.

A Used Snap-on MT2500 is the best one.  There is many off brands you can get also, just make sure it has all the keys and has the update to cover your year.
Logged

2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2937


« Reply #5 on: November 14, 2016, 05:24:20 PM »

I have a "red brick" Snap on one. MT 2500, I think.  I know that the OTC Genisys will do it, as that is what we have at work, and I have had to use it to do that job a few times there.

I also know how expensive that Snap on scanner was in its day and the yearly updates to keep up with the new models were pretty salty as well.  It was a scanner that would "never" go out of date, but it has/ it can only be updated to be "current" until 2008 or 2009 at the newest. Now a days they can be had cheap.  I paid $3K+ for mine back in 2003,  something went wrong with it, the thumb wheel will scroll one way but is dead the other/  I bought a replacement at an auction over this past summer for $35, I didnt care what cables and cartridges came with it, I just wanted the "brick" itself.

I would like to get a Modis (I think that is their current machine) but it is still in the "too lofty for how much I'd use it" range. The good thing is that much of the hardware that fit the old red brick will work with these.
Back when the "red brick" was"the $#!T" When you would buy a brand new one, "newest and most up to date" was only current for a then 2 year old car, when I bought mine in 2003 the newest available at that time, was data relating to 2001 model year.
notice what I said above about "eyeballing" it where the engine sounded pretty good.... I was still at a minus-21. so close enough is not good enough. I think they (Mopar) give you an acceptable range of+/- 4.  

one thing about the OTC scanner vs the red brick;   with the brick, the command for "set sync" pretty easy to find, where as I had to do a bit more digging to find the command to do this within the OTC's program..... the OTC sees more geared toward GM, wile the Snap on seems easier for me to run tests on Mopar and Ford products.  imports? I won't touch, and wish I could find the red button to make them all disappear from US roads "poof"
« Last Edit: November 14, 2016, 05:30:22 PM by donram360 » Logged
chris
Bionic Newbie

Offline Offline

Posts: 61



« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2016, 02:58:46 PM »

So I seen this one on ebay. It has a cartridge that covers my year but then I see 3 keys pictured with it. What are the keys and how do I know if it will work with my durango?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SNAP-ON-MT2500-DIAGNOSTIC-SCANNER-W-ACCESSORIES-VERY-NICE-SHAPE-/122220290230?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Also is the scanner good for anything else? 200 bucks seems pretty steep for just adjusting the fuel sync.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2016, 04:23:25 PM by chris » Logged

"I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me." --MOOG
chris
Bionic Newbie

Offline Offline

Posts: 61



« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2016, 05:27:49 PM »

Nevermind.  I went ahead and ordered it with the 13A key. I've already spent so much time and money on the truck whats another $220 to do the job right. Would like to know what are some things I could do with it still. I figure i'll do the fuel sync and adjust for larger tires.
Logged

"I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me." --MOOG
Richie
Global Moderator
Bionic Master
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 2169



« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2016, 05:48:30 PM »

 I've got a new Snapon Solus Edge, I'll have to hook it up to my Dakota to check out the fuel sync. Once I get everything to my new home in Georgia.
« Last Edit: November 15, 2016, 05:50:24 PM by Richie » Logged

Big a** supercharged 4.7L HO, cammed, Custom made Supercharger COG drive system, 72mm F&B throttle body, ROSS ceramic coated pistons, Billet H beam rods, 1st set of race prepped big valves heads W/ behive springs, Custom one off sheet metal intake, Modified Edelbrock Mustang intake elbow, ATI super dampner, 3,000 Edge racing billet stall converter, meth injected, SCT tuned, 60# injectors, Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump, Aeromotive -12 Fuel Filter, Boost reference FPR, Custom fuel cell, Braided stainless line and AN fittings, Aeromotive Billet fuel controller,  2 bar map, Turbo Smart Race Port BOV, 180d* T stat, True dual exhuast, Built tranny W/ deep trans pan, built transfer case, 275 60 R17 rubber.
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2937


« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2016, 05:51:38 PM »

yeah, those scanners do more than just set the sync on Dodges, alot more. they are made to work on all makes and models, though there are different series of cartridges for domestic brands vs imports.

But you can do better than that one.Don't necessarily jump on the 1st one.   As far as "yeah it has a cartridge that is the same year as my truck", I would look for one that goes newer because a newer one overlaps and covers everything the older one will, plus the newest year shown. for example the latest one I got from the auction came with 1992 cartridges which will cover my Dakota. BUT the 2001 cartridge that came with my original scanner (that I bought new for over $3k back in the day) does too...
the earliest computer controls for which they came out with a scanner actually came out in the 80s believe it or not; but as each year passed, new things developed, good ideas on paper that turned out to be bad ideas in practice became more known/ as the age and miles piled on, "pattern" or repeat" failures with each year and model started appearing and as updates for each new year came about, this new info was incorporated into the current year, that a cartridge made "for your year" may not have.
The particular scanner you highlighted,, does NOT have the personality key you will need for a Dodge, every that i have ever plugged into has wanted a k13/k13a (one supersedes the other) There is a "generic" mode that I think takes a k2, but it isn't very brand specific, you will not be able to do brand specific things in generic mode.
you can get the keys and every other component separately but to piece one together that way will wind up costing you more than getting a more complete kit.
Starting in 96 with OBD II you use the same adapter (that is where the personality key comes in) but prior to that there was a different one for Dodge/Chrysler than for Ford, a different one (actually 2 different ones depending on year) and to access ABS on Fords had yet a different cable end, etc.
They were designed for a shop that works on many makes and models, as opposed to needing the factory scanners for each brand, and each couple of years they come out with a whole new one,
The aftermarket ones don't quite have all the capability of a brand specific one (example; reprogramming the ones that can be) but for most common things you see on a daily basis they don't do too bad.

and unlike Useless Zone's "code reader" that only does just that, you can actually read what each sensor is telling the computer, which in alot of cases is the only way to tell whether the sensor is working as designed.  A code just gives you a direction, it does not necessarily tell you that a part is "bad". Bad connections, corrosion, broken wires, etc can throw a code just like a bad sensor. It does take some playing around and reading the book(s) that (hopefully) come with the machine.
Yeah, if this is gonna be a one shot deal the only thing you ever do with a scanner it wouldn't be a good buy. Find a buddy, buy him a case of beer or fast food burger combo, and call it good. but to go to a damn dealer just to set your sync setting (which takes less than 10 minutes once they try to nitpick and sell you a whole bunch of other work because they do not know the history of "your" truck)  will probably cost you at least $100.  most charge a min of an hour even for the simplest of things.
but once you have one, I think you will find it more useful than you thought it would be.
Logged
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2937


« Reply #10 on: November 15, 2016, 05:53:15 PM »

You posted while I was typing. There is nothing you can do with that scanner regarding adjusting for tire size.
I was hoping you would see what I was saying before you went ahead and bought "that" one.
Logged
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2937


« Reply #11 on: November 15, 2016, 05:57:59 PM »

and on my Durango.... close but not quite. took it for its maiden voyage and had to call my kid with a tow strap about 3 miles out, acted like it ran out of fuel, gotta put the fuel pressure test gauge on it and figure out what's up.... I know it has no codes at present...fired right up here a few times before we put the hood on it, went in and ate, did a few other things, helped my kid do a side job brakes on a POS Toyota (every Toyota is a POS, IMHO) and then went for a ride.... now cranks but no fire has spark and by listening to it crank, it has compression.... it pops and backfires thru the intake when it does anything.... 
fresh painted motor making for a bad ground maybe?
Logged
magnumman
Site Owner
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4401



WWW
« Reply #12 on: November 15, 2016, 06:50:30 PM »

and on my Durango.... close but not quite. took it for its maiden voyage and had to call my kid with a tow strap about 3 miles out, acted like it ran out of fuel, gotta put the fuel pressure test gauge on it and figure out what's up.... I know it has no codes at present...fired right up here a few times before we put the hood on it, went in and ate, did a few other things, helped my kid do a side job brakes on a POS Toyota (every Toyota is a POS, IMHO) and then went for a ride.... now cranks but no fire has spark and by listening to it crank, it has compression.... it pops and backfires thru the intake when it does anything.... 
fresh painted motor making for a bad ground maybe?

Possible fuel pump relay or ASD?
Logged

2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
Richie
Global Moderator
Bionic Master
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 2169



« Reply #13 on: November 16, 2016, 06:43:53 AM »

Good coil? Bad Crank shaft sensor wont let it fire too.
Logged

Big a** supercharged 4.7L HO, cammed, Custom made Supercharger COG drive system, 72mm F&B throttle body, ROSS ceramic coated pistons, Billet H beam rods, 1st set of race prepped big valves heads W/ behive springs, Custom one off sheet metal intake, Modified Edelbrock Mustang intake elbow, ATI super dampner, 3,000 Edge racing billet stall converter, meth injected, SCT tuned, 60# injectors, Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump, Aeromotive -12 Fuel Filter, Boost reference FPR, Custom fuel cell, Braided stainless line and AN fittings, Aeromotive Billet fuel controller,  2 bar map, Turbo Smart Race Port BOV, 180d* T stat, True dual exhuast, Built tranny W/ deep trans pan, built transfer case, 275 60 R17 rubber.
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2937


« Reply #14 on: November 16, 2016, 08:33:55 AM »

Well both of them are BRAND new. Both "Standard" brand
Distributor pickup too. I have so far checked for spark (good), codes (none) and fuel pressure. Spec is 49 +/-5, it has 48. It started right up at home, shut it off and restarted it 4-5 times since having it all together,
Took it out for maiden voyage and got about 2 miles and it died coming to a stop sign. Started right back up. Another 2 miles and it died again, not to restart.  This time I heard popping and crackling, like hot metal, while I waited for my son with the tow strap I looked under to see my brand new cat glowing red and the brand new muffler was blued like a rifle.
When it died it acted like it was running out of gas. It wouldn't rev, I never did get it to see 60.
Though I have the fuel pressure that I mentioned, w/o the gauge on it when I press the Schrader valve right after the couple second pump buzz when I first hit the key it just dribbles, no big whoosh like would be expected on a line charged with nearly 50psi...
Also when I do the pressure test and turn off the key it drops off 4-5 psi right away and another 4-5 within about 10 minutes. I am leaning towards a pump issue.
Oh yeah injectors were just sent off for flushing, testing and new screens within 1000miles just before the engine job.
 
« Last Edit: November 16, 2016, 08:38:39 AM by donram360 » Logged
Bionicdodge.Com
Advertisement
Thanks to the following sponsor
   

 Logged
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5 Go Up Print 
Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  3.9/5.2/5.9 (Moderators: Lynn, 98Dak408)  |  Topic: well finally my Durango runs again.... « previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!