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Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  3.9/5.2/5.9 (Moderators: Lynn, 98Dak408)  |  Topic: well finally my Durango runs again.... 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: well finally my Durango runs again....  (Read 8152 times)
donram360
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« Reply #15 on: November 16, 2016, 08:37:30 AM »

Oh yeah when I got it running the 1st night it did die once while I was watching under the hood but restarted right back up, then it did set a code for momentary loss of crank signal but like I said it started right back and that code never did return even now.
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donram360
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« Reply #16 on: November 16, 2016, 05:09:51 PM »

ok got it all figured out..... details later.
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magnumman
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« Reply #17 on: November 16, 2016, 06:17:48 PM »

Thats a weird issue...  A Red cat makes me think too much fuel or restricted cat, Which contradicts low fuel pressure.

Since you had your exhaust pipes open for an extended period of time, I will suggest replacing your upstream o2 sensor or at least swapping it with the rear o2 sensor.  I dont know what it is about o2 sensors being exposed to open air but it caused me to run rich with no CEL's when I did my shorty headers. Replacing it worked for member chris also in a recent topic/post after his rebuild.
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
donram360
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« Reply #18 on: November 17, 2016, 08:21:41 AM »

Hey Magnum, I  did replace them both along with the motor job at the same time as the cat, muffler and everything else.
How can they sit in a warehouse for who knows how long before someone buys it and installs it?
« Last Edit: November 17, 2016, 08:25:31 AM by donram360 » Logged
magnumman
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« Reply #19 on: November 17, 2016, 07:46:13 PM »

Hey Magnum, I  did replace them both along with the motor job at the same time as the cat, muffler and everything else.
How can they sit in a warehouse for who knows how long before someone buys it and installs it?

I have No idea, on how a new one can sit on a shelf for years and work great when installed vs one that has seen many miles and sits then is used again and fails. It boggles my mind.  But these used or "sitting and used" o2 sensors failing during a "motor/pre o2 sensor exhaust" upgrade issue has some evidence.   

You should be good with your o2 sensor since they are newer but I thought I'd throw that out there.

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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
chris
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« Reply #20 on: November 21, 2016, 03:14:08 PM »

I have a "red brick" Snap on one. MT 2500, I think.  I know that the OTC Genisys will do it, as that is what we have at work, and I have had to use it to do that job a few times there.

I also know how expensive that Snap on scanner was in its day and the yearly updates to keep up with the new models were pretty salty as well.  It was a scanner that would "never" go out of date, but it has/ it can only be updated to be "current" until 2008 or 2009 at the newest. Now a days they can be had cheap.  I paid $3K+ for mine back in 2003,  something went wrong with it, the thumb wheel will scroll one way but is dead the other/  I bought a replacement at an auction over this past summer for $35, I didnt care what cables and cartridges came with it, I just wanted the "brick" itself.

I would like to get a Modis (I think that is their current machine) but it is still in the "too lofty for how much I'd use it" range. The good thing is that much of the hardware that fit the old red brick will work with these.
Back when the "red brick" was"the $#!T" When you would buy a brand new one, "newest and most up to date" was only current for a then 2 year old car, when I bought mine in 2003 the newest available at that time, was data relating to 2001 model year.
notice what I said above about "eyeballing" it where the engine sounded pretty good.... I was still at a minus-21. so close enough is not good enough. I think they (Mopar) give you an acceptable range of+/- 4.   

one thing about the OTC scanner vs the red brick;   with the brick, the command for "set sync" pretty easy to find, where as I had to do a bit more digging to find the command to do this within the OTC's program..... the OTC sees more geared toward GM, wile the Snap on seems easier for me to run tests on Mopar and Ford products.  imports? I won't touch, and wish I could find the red button to make them all disappear from US roads "poof"

Guess I got lucky. Hooked up my new scanner and was getting a sync signal or +6/7 consistent. A little off but not enough that I think it would be a big diff. Or am I wrong.
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"I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me." --MOOG
magnumman
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« Reply #21 on: November 21, 2016, 07:01:52 PM »

I have a "red brick" Snap on one. MT 2500, I think.  I know that the OTC Genisys will do it, as that is what we have at work, and I have had to use it to do that job a few times there.

I also know how expensive that Snap on scanner was in its day and the yearly updates to keep up with the new models were pretty salty as well.  It was a scanner that would "never" go out of date, but it has/ it can only be updated to be "current" until 2008 or 2009 at the newest. Now a days they can be had cheap.  I paid $3K+ for mine back in 2003,  something went wrong with it, the thumb wheel will scroll one way but is dead the other/  I bought a replacement at an auction over this past summer for $35, I didnt care what cables and cartridges came with it, I just wanted the "brick" itself.

I would like to get a Modis (I think that is their current machine) but it is still in the "too lofty for how much I'd use it" range. The good thing is that much of the hardware that fit the old red brick will work with these.
Back when the "red brick" was"the $#!T" When you would buy a brand new one, "newest and most up to date" was only current for a then 2 year old car, when I bought mine in 2003 the newest available at that time, was data relating to 2001 model year.
notice what I said above about "eyeballing" it where the engine sounded pretty good.... I was still at a minus-21. so close enough is not good enough. I think they (Mopar) give you an acceptable range of+/- 4.   

one thing about the OTC scanner vs the red brick;   with the brick, the command for "set sync" pretty easy to find, where as I had to do a bit more digging to find the command to do this within the OTC's program..... the OTC sees more geared toward GM, wile the Snap on seems easier for me to run tests on Mopar and Ford products.  imports? I won't touch, and wish I could find the red button to make them all disappear from US roads "poof"

Guess I got lucky. Hooked up my new scanner and was getting a sync signal or +6/7 consistent. A little off but not enough that I think it would be a big diff. Or am I wrong.

Chris,  A sync of +3 to +4max would be more fitting for your setup.  But if your happy with it leave it at +6/7.

Here's a little guide on fuel sync:
Just in case anyone is wondering...

The definition of "Fuel Sync" on magnum motors with a stock camshaft is basically:
1:   +1 thru +8 is the fuel being released after the intake valve has started to open.

2:   Zero is the fuel being released while the intake valve is closed but getting ready to open.

3:   -1 thru -8 is the fuel being released while the intake valve is closing.
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
donram360
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« Reply #22 on: November 22, 2016, 06:38:56 AM »

The way that you describe #1 and #3 steps of sync, what you have stated for #2  would have to be "that split second that the intake valve is open to the max"
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magnumman
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« Reply #23 on: November 22, 2016, 06:54:15 PM »

The way that you describe #1 and #3 steps of sync, what you have stated for #2  would have to be "that split second that the intake valve is open to the max"

#2 is suppose to be stock but not always "mine was +4 from the factory".  Fuel sync set at zero, the fuel hits the back of the valve and gets sucked in with the air "questionable atomization".

+1 is intake valve just starting to open, +8 is intake valve close to fully open.
-1 is intake valve is just starting to close, -8 is intake valve close to closing..  I would only recommend using negative values under Boost.

I should have mentioned this part before....  This only holds true for stock ratio valvetrain.

Now if you throw a larger cam or 1.7 rockers at this, you'll definitely want to be in the + range.  Because a stock pcm wont know you changed the cam profile, so fuel sync would have to be advanced a bit.  There's no calculator for it, you just have to play around and find your engines sweet spot.
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
donram360
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« Reply #24 on: November 28, 2016, 08:37:23 AM »

The saga continues..... it runs but it runs like absolute $#1t. I did drive it (very) briefly.   it came home on the end of a tow strap.  Code for #6 injector driver again, I sent the computer off for a rebuild before the engine overhaul for the same thing only that time it was on #4. I have another computer coming from a junkyard about 50 miles to the west.

One thing that REALLY baffles me.  It was running (I drove it that way apparently) and when it died and I got it home among other things it was 180* out..... how it got there and how I was able to drive it is beyond me. It sounded so good in the garage before I left on that maiden voyage, has started it and shut it off several times over a couple of days before I put the hood back on and took it out.

Having an engine that would run 180* out is something that I have heard a few times over the years from some who are now old timers, but never would have believed it if I hadn't seen it for myself 1st hand.
And all the while trying to crank it over to get it to run again even at 180* out the red brick said that sync was "OK".... another oddity. I have since pulled the distributor and indexed it the right way  and as I started with above it runs but badly at the moment.
« Last Edit: November 28, 2016, 08:40:17 AM by donram360 » Logged
chris
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« Reply #25 on: December 01, 2016, 04:57:16 PM »

The saga continues..... it runs but it runs like absolute $#1t. I did drive it (very) briefly.   it came home on the end of a tow strap.  Code for #6 injector driver again, I sent the computer off for a rebuild before the engine overhaul for the same thing only that time it was on #4. I have another computer coming from a junkyard about 50 miles to the west.

One thing that REALLY baffles me.  It was running (I drove it that way apparently) and when it died and I got it home among other things it was 180* out..... how it got there and how I was able to drive it is beyond me. It sounded so good in the garage before I left on that maiden voyage, has started it and shut it off several times over a couple of days before I put the hood back on and took it out.

Having an engine that would run 180* out is something that I have heard a few times over the years from some who are now old timers, but never would have believed it if I hadn't seen it for myself 1st hand.
And all the while trying to crank it over to get it to run again even at 180* out the red brick said that sync was "OK".... another oddity. I have since pulled the distributor and indexed it the right way  and as I started with above it runs but badly at the moment.

Have you got it running proper yet? If so what was wrong?
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"I'd rather lose by a mile because I built my own car, than win by an inch because someone else built it for me." --MOOG
donram360
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« Reply #26 on: December 01, 2016, 05:42:27 PM »

computer spitting out more codes for injector drivers.... injectors and wiring verified working as designed. computer is fried. ongoing part of original issue I started fighting from before the rebuild. I sent the computer in for a rebuild before the engine got yanked and it ran good for a little bit before i pulled the engine  and again after it was back in but then it flipped out and went crazy again... verified crank and cam sensors and injector operation, fuel pressure, wiring and more. are ok. cleaned all grounds shiney and added some redundant grounds for good measure.  computers (original one and one I picked up from the boneyard) on their way back to the computer repair place. hopefully they honor their lifetime warranty on the original one and can reprogram the junkyard one to work with my CTM and my SKIM (chipped key) like the original one "used to".

replacement one allows it to start and quit, repeatedly. "SECURITY" light comes on and code set for "Incompatible SKIM" so it needs to be reprogrammed even though it came from an identical 01 Durango with a 5.9....
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magnumman
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« Reply #27 on: December 01, 2016, 07:04:49 PM »



replacement one allows it to start and quit, repeatedly. "SECURITY" light comes on and code set for "Incompatible SKIM" so it needs to be reprogrammed even though it came from an identical 01 Durango with a 5.9....

Yea SKIM codes have to match, its a security feature for the security feature.  Kind of goofy but makes sense.
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
donram360
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« Reply #28 on: December 02, 2016, 01:44:27 AM »



replacement one allows it to start and quit, repeatedly. "SECURITY" light comes on and code set for "Incompatible SKIM" so it needs to be reprogrammed even though it came from an identical 01 Durango with a 5.9....

Yea SKIM codes have to match, its a security feature for the security feature.  Kind of goofy but makes sense.

people ask me occasionally why I don't buy newer vehicles.... this is a 2001 and the electrical/electronics are driving me crazy enough.  Newer is even worse.  With my 92 Dakota I have a computer on there that came from my '93 Dakota. Runs fine, doesnt know the difference. I could put a computer on there from a van and it would not know the difference, would run just the same. and would not care what the VIN of the donor was....  Now a days there is only one computer in the world that will run a given vehicle without having to pay someone else and wait on them or you have a worthless yard ornament.  Ridiculous. Did I say I hate electrical/electronics?
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donram360
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« Reply #29 on: December 07, 2016, 01:52:37 PM »

some news; the computer repair place called me today, they have both my computers (supposedly) ready and will be shipped back today.  The junkyard one is programmed to my VIN and SKIM (they didn't specify anything else with that one)

and my original one is repaired again, I guess they found some loose (solder joints to the board) injector drivers besides the one replaced last time, and the PROM that was supposedly fixed for that issue before was loose again.   I have talked to these guys a few times now since I determined that the computer had to be my issue and they are real quick to say that "the tech that worked on your unit originally, no longer works here"  that one was N/C because this company offers a life time warranty on computers that they repair/program.
I am still kind of leery of my original one because this is twice now that it has given me trouble. so IDK if I should trust that one or keep that one as the backup. that was mostly why I found a different one in a junkyard.
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