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Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  3.7/4.7/5.7/6.1/6.4 Hemi (Moderators: hemifever, adamsredlines, Richie)  |  Topic: 2004 Dakota 3.7 Fault Codes P0700 and P1776 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: 2004 Dakota 3.7 Fault Codes P0700 and P1776  (Read 640 times)
98Dak408
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« on: September 08, 2017, 09:48:49 AM »

Since I bought the truck earlier this year I’ve had some problems with the transmission.  It seems to work fine with regular driving but if I’m cruising on the highway and want to pass, I press the gas for the kick-down to the next lower gear and the rpms flare up as if in neutral, or like it shifted to too lower of a gear.  I must let up on the gas for it to resume normally. The last time I tried to pass and this happened the engine light came on. 

I checked for fault codes and even though I don’t have the correct year cartridge for my vehicle the MT2500 scanner showed the following fault codes: P0700 and P1776. 

The two codes may not be related but another problem I’ve notice is when coming to an abrupt stop, it’s like the rear anti-lock does something funky and the brake pedal drops a bit and the brakes don’t grab as well as they normally do.  Otherwise the brakes work great.

I need to spend more time researching this but just wondering if anyone has any input in this regard.  I will also keep my eyes peeled for a service manual and get the correct year cartridges from my scanner. 


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magnumman
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« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2017, 05:36:13 PM »

There is a TSB on P1776 for your truck, "Solenoid Switch Valve Latched in LR Position". Here's a link to the TSB with vague instruction-----> http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/neontsbs/2003/21-008-04.pdf


I have 2003 Durango 4.7 4x4 TCM laying around somewhere. If you need let me know if that thats your issue, you can have it for the cost of shipping.
« Last Edit: September 08, 2017, 05:47:05 PM by magnumman » Logged

2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This thing is a turd.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow. Seems like the more I beat on it the faster it goes.
98Dak408
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« Reply #2 on: September 09, 2017, 03:14:19 AM »

Thanks Chris! 

From the searching I've done it could be a number of things.  The cheapest and easiest thing to do is check the shift cable adjustment.  I also found a guy with a Jeep where the Chrysler techs found the problem to be the TPS sensor on the throttle body.  I can check that relatively easily as well.  Other than that it appears to be in the transmission. 

Vid: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=dtc+p1776+solenoid+switch+valve+latched+in+lr+position&qpvt=dtc+p1776+solenoid+switch+valve+latched+in+lr+position&view=detail&mid=745BAE05B2123FCD86D3745BAE05B2123FCD86D3&FORM=VRDGAR

Jeep forum: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/help-42rle-transmission-problems-p1776-1067877/

Post 17 sound like what my trans is doing and post 21 describes the TPS sensor as being the problem.

Other links:

https://f01.justanswer.com/dodgetech77/81d44a9b-3f6d-41a2-8aec-bab59aabd90a_P1776-SOLENOID+SWITCH+VALVE+LATCHED+IN+LR+P.pdf
« Last Edit: September 09, 2017, 03:19:14 AM by 98Dak408 » Logged

magnumman
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« Reply #3 on: September 09, 2017, 05:04:04 PM »

Let me know what you find out
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This thing is a turd.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow. Seems like the more I beat on it the faster it goes.
98Dak408
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« Reply #4 on: September 12, 2017, 07:17:54 AM »

Found a couple of Snap On MT2500 cartridges for my year Dakota yesterday, one is for the Communication Interface and the other for the Fast-Track Trouble Shooting.  Today I found a new listing for the Factory Service Manual including Power Train Diagnostics and the Body Diagnostics for a good price.  I'll dig into it once I receive these items. 
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magnumman
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« Reply #5 on: September 12, 2017, 04:38:53 PM »

Found a couple of Snap On MT2500 cartridges for my year Dakota yesterday, one is for the Communication Interface and the other for the Fast-Track Trouble Shooting.  Today I found a new listing for the Factory Service Manual including Power Train Diagnostics and the Body Diagnostics for a good price.  I'll dig into it once I receive these items. 

Awesome.  I need to get a MT2500 also.  It would really help with playing with fuel sync.
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This thing is a turd.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow. Seems like the more I beat on it the faster it goes.
98Dak408
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« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2017, 01:17:57 PM »

Received the Snap On cartridges and I'm surprised.  It showed the MIL codes along with the part number of the problem, if I'm reading it correctly and if it is correct.

P0700: Transmission Controller, part number 56029136AC  I looked it up and it is the crank sensor
P1776: Engine Controller, part number 56030009AD I looked it up and it is the ECM/PCM



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magnumman
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« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2017, 05:07:10 PM »

Thats great! 

Maybe try replacing the Crank Sensor 1st, see if it cures the P1776
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This thing is a turd.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow. Seems like the more I beat on it the faster it goes.
Richie
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« Reply #8 on: September 22, 2017, 10:08:00 AM »

The crank sensor usually causes it to flat out shut off. But it can have a missed signal then pickup and cause a hiccup so to speak. I'll look up the codes on my Snap on Solus Edge.
« Last Edit: September 22, 2017, 10:10:30 AM by Richie » Logged

Big a** supercharged 4.7L HO, cammed, Custom made Supercharger COG drive system, 72mm F&B throttle body, ROSS ceramic coated pistons, Billet H beam rods, 1st set of race prepped big valves heads W/ behive springs, Custom one off sheet metal intake, Modified Edelbrock Mustang intake elbow, ATI super dampner, 3,000 Edge racing billet stall converter, meth injected, SCT tuned, 60# injectors, Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump, Aeromotive -12 Fuel Filter, Boost reference FPR, Custom fuel cell, Braided stainless line and AN fittings, Aeromotive Billet fuel controller,  2 bar map, Turbo Smart Race Port BOV, 180d* T stat, True dual exhuast, Built tranny W/ deep trans pan, built transfer case, 275 60 R17 rubber.
98Dak408
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« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2017, 02:43:12 AM »

Quote
The crank sensor usually causes it to flat out shut off.
That has basically been my experience with the 5.9 

I've got to see what the trouble shooting method specifies in the service manual.

Quote
I'll look up the codes on my Snap on Solus Edge.
I'd be curious if you Solus specifies anything about it.
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98Dak408
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« Reply #10 on: September 25, 2017, 12:25:46 PM »

Out of all the pick-a-part salvage yards in Detroit, only one had a 2004 3.7 automatic PCM.  After I pulled it I noticed written on the windshield,  "Bad Ignition".  Who knows what that means.  Hope I didn't just buy a junk PCM. 
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« Reply #11 on: September 25, 2017, 04:42:17 PM »

Out of all the pick-a-part salvage yards in Detroit, only one had a 2004 3.7 automatic PCM.  After I pulled it I noticed written on the windshield,  "Bad Ignition".  Who knows what that means.  Hope I didn't just buy a junk PCM. 

Hopefully not.  Junk yard speak differs it seems from the rest of the automotive world, so "Bad Ignition" could mean no gas in tank, failed fuel pump, seized block, ect.  Basically the employee they had look at it couldn't start it.

Does the 3.7 have the same cam sensor as the 4.7 that goes through the drivers side valve cover area?  I had to replace a few of those on my Durango.  It never caused my motor to quit but I'd have to tap it with a screwdriver to get the 4.7 started.
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This thing is a turd.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow. Seems like the more I beat on it the faster it goes.
98Dak408
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« Reply #12 on: September 26, 2017, 06:28:01 AM »

Quote
Hopefully not.  Junk yard speak differs it seems from the rest of the automotive world, so "Bad Ignition" could mean no gas in tank, failed fuel pump, seized block, ect.  Basically the employee they had look at it couldn't start it.
That's pretty much what I think too.  ~$21 vs. ~$100+ on-line so I figured I'd give it a shot.

Quote
Does the 3.7 have the same cam sensor as the 4.7 that goes through the drivers side valve cover area?  I had to replace a few of those on my Durango.  It never caused my motor to quit but I'd have to tap it with a screwdriver to get the 4.7 started.
Not sure about the crank triggers but I'd think they'd be the same.  Tried searching through the service manual to see if the crank trigger has anything to do with the transmission sensors but have not found anything yet.  It seems that the 2004 Dakota service manual has several related books so maybe I'm missing one that explains how the PCM operators in concert with the sensors.
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Richie
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« Reply #13 on: October 03, 2017, 12:53:58 PM »

The cam sensor on the 4.7 is in the passenger side up under the head on the side.
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Big a** supercharged 4.7L HO, cammed, Custom made Supercharger COG drive system, 72mm F&B throttle body, ROSS ceramic coated pistons, Billet H beam rods, 1st set of race prepped big valves heads W/ behive springs, Custom one off sheet metal intake, Modified Edelbrock Mustang intake elbow, ATI super dampner, 3,000 Edge racing billet stall converter, meth injected, SCT tuned, 60# injectors, Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump, Aeromotive -12 Fuel Filter, Boost reference FPR, Custom fuel cell, Braided stainless line and AN fittings, Aeromotive Billet fuel controller,  2 bar map, Turbo Smart Race Port BOV, 180d* T stat, True dual exhuast, Built tranny W/ deep trans pan, built transfer case, 275 60 R17 rubber.
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Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  3.7/4.7/5.7/6.1/6.4 Hemi (Moderators: hemifever, adamsredlines, Richie)  |  Topic: 2004 Dakota 3.7 Fault Codes P0700 and P1776 « previous next »
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