Bionicdodge.Com
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
September 22, 2018, 11:45:59 AM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
   

95751 Posts in 11996 Topics by 2121 Members
Latest Member: 1992DakotaLE
* Home Help Search Gallery Calendar Login Register
Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  Styling, Body, & Detailing (Moderator: jusdeez)  |  Topic: awww crap 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: [1] Go Down Print
Author Topic: awww crap  (Read 400 times)
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2751


« on: May 31, 2018, 04:40:58 PM »

as some of you guys know I have 2 Gen 1 Dakotas... a 92 and a 96, both driven daily. I have been able to split off between them the last week as the wife can't drive temporarily on account of knee surgery.... my son used the 96 today to take her to Doc, for followup…. I went to get in today when I got home, we went and got something to eat. I noticed my driver door closing "weirdly"....   but if I only opened it ~8" it didn't act up.  acted like bad door pins when it does act up.  I grabbed door to check for play up n down, felt solid. 
Got home and found issue. Half of the door hinges are welded to the door jamb.  On the lower hinge, the door busted out around the hinge.  Weird/ because the door itself is overall pretty solid.....
What to do?   I have 2 nice doors and fenders that I have wanted to install "anyway" and they are "close" color but enough off that it would stick out....  I have been waiting for time to swap them in, fix the bad pass. rocker (only need like 6" of it, very front) but NOT NOW!   
I think that if I pull it off that I can weld it up, and maybe put a backup piece behind it from inside of the door.....    truck is "bright white"  I have a VERY CLEAN set of doors and fenders, weirdly from an '87 (oldest of the Dakota line) that are seriously like new..... but they are an "off white"....  which was the factory color that year.    Don't have time or money now to yank the bed and send it off for a cab paint job.....   what would you do? Swap my nice parts on or try and fix what is there til I can do without the truck long enough for its Maaco paint job?????? 
Logged
magnumman
Site Owner
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3906



WWW
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2018, 05:55:14 PM »

I would swap it and put the new doors on. That would be the quickest fix.  Who cares what it looks like.

My old 94 Dakota doors were solid but it rusted off the jam.  It was just like the OLD Victory Auto Wreckers Commercial "youtube it" when I got to work, I opened the door and it fell off. The guys at work gave hell about that for years.

For the door jam, my neighbors were throwing away a 1960's washing machine which looked like it was made of 20 gauge steel.  I cut off what I needed from the old washer and formed it and welded it on.  Im sure that repair held up until it was sent to the junk yard.
Logged

2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This thing is a turd.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow. Seems like the more I beat on it the faster it goes.
98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5207



WWW
« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2018, 03:08:36 AM »

The '90 Dakota I had developed problems opening and closing the driver's door.  The root of the problem was the disintegration of the body bushings thus twisting the cab a bit.

 
Logged

magnumman
Site Owner
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3906



WWW
« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2018, 05:57:42 PM »

The '90 Dakota I had developed problems opening and closing the driver's door.  The root of the problem was the disintegration of the body bushings thus twisting the cab a bit.

This happened on mine as well.  I busted a 2ft long 1/2in drive breaker bar trying to get those body bolts out, they wouldn't budge.  I had to buy a 3/4in drive socket set that came with a 3ft ratchet and breaker bar to get them out.
Logged

2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This thing is a turd.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow. Seems like the more I beat on it the faster it goes.
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2751


« Reply #4 on: June 02, 2018, 03:29:33 AM »

what I don't get is that nobody "hangs" on the doors, and it is a pretty solid truck besides the fronts of the fenders behind where the bumper wraps around..... I would not have expected this.
Logged
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2751


« Reply #5 on: June 03, 2018, 04:17:51 AM »

well got the driver door and fender on, have to detatch the bumper to take off the fender, take the hood off to get to the hinge bolts on the jamb side.... and my replacement parts came from an 87 my truck is a 96, fit right on there, BUT I had to measure and drill the holes for the power window regulator and the power lock plunger....  and the 87 door is probably at least 10# lighter than the original door because it don't have that bolster plate in it like the original door did...
The truck I got these parts off of in the junkyard over a year ago was CLEAN.... amazingly clean, one of those that you shake your head and wonder what the idiot was thinking when they hauled it in... I wish I had a place to stash the bed, I wanted it so bad....
truck was a 3.9 (carbureted! (only year for that) with a stick..... in other words super easy to have swapped a V8 into.... I know where there is a 340 sitting too..... what a shame.
hopefully next weekend I can swap out the passenger side. 
fit up was good except I have a bigger gap between door and fender than it did originally, though it is quite even top to bottom.... the '87 pinstripe between door and fender, matched up with each other perfect, gaps are even top to bottom and about the same around teh rest of the door as the original door was....  I  coated the inside of the replacement fenders HEAVY with POR 15, I poured almost 1/2 a can inside and sloshe dit around all different ways, the extra POR 15 dripped out as I was bolting it up....  nice having solid rust free sheet metal. the parts came off easy enough but it took me forever to put it back together...
I also took off all the black trim along the body since my replacements dont have them... once I get the sticky residue off the truck looks better without it.  If I ever get my paint job done I want to replace the trim I removed with blue bedliner.
I was looking into a company called "MONSTALINER".... a DIY type product that can be had in anout 8 colors, that is rated tons better than the regular DIY crap lile Duplicolor...... may do the rockers with it too.
between this one and my 92 if I have to ever decide "one or the other" this is the one I hope to make my "keeper" because of 4WD, 3.91s and brand new Track lok which I added right when I bought this truck, though overall the 92's body is slightly better even considering the rust free sheet metal I just added top this truck....
Logged
donram360
Administrator
Bionic Supremacist
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2751


« Reply #6 on: June 03, 2018, 04:04:09 PM »

today I pried that black molding off the rest of the truck, since the new doors and fenders don't have them....  and unscrewed the ones around the other 3 wheel wells and got an unhappy surprise lurking behind them over the rear wheel wells.... rust... driver side won't need any body work, I caught it in time, just a couple blisters, pass side is a bit worse, will need to find that side a patch panel... was hoping not to do anything to the bed except unbolt and rebolt when paint job time comes....    will probably just go with a single stage paint when that time does get here.....
gonna bead blast the damage on the bed one of tehse days soon at work and coat w/ POR 15 to hopefully at least slow the rust down.
Logged
Bionicdodge.Com
Advertisement
Thanks to the following sponsor
   

 Logged
Pages: [1] Go Up Print 
Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  Styling, Body, & Detailing (Moderator: jusdeez)  |  Topic: awww crap « previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!