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Bionicdodge.Com | Bionic Tech | Dragstrip Tech (Moderators: B1llyw, 98Dak408) | Topic: Burnout Tips 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Burnout Tips (Read 16135 times)
rtxpres
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on: February 21, 2005, 05:15:31 AM

Purpose of a burnout:

To clean the tires of dust, gravel, sand, grass, water, oil, cigarette butts, small children, etc....
If using slicks, a proper burnout will also warm the tires and bring special compounds in the rubber to the surface for better traction.

With Street tires:

DON'T go through the water.   Drive around it, get lined up straight towards the starting line, stop, put trans in first gear, release brake and stab the throttle simultaneously.    If you have enough power the tires will spin.   Allow this for a few feet and you will have accomplished all you can with street tires.   At least they're now clean.    If they don't spin......well, what are you worried about?   :-)

With DOT Drag tires or Slicks:

DO go through the water, but slowly.   If you drive into it too fast you will splash water up into your wheelwells.    What goes up will come back down on the starting line.   You know, gravity.    Oh oh.     Stop when your rear tires are at the edge of the water closest to the starting line.      Do Not spin your tires while in the water.   It's that gravity thing again.  

Automatic trans:

Without line-loc:
 While applying the brake pedal, select first gear, stab the throttle quickly to break the tires loose and bring the rpm quickly to something near your redline (but not over it).

With line-loc:    Apply brake Firmly!     Press line-loc button and Release brake pedal.    Select first gear, stab the throttle quickly to break the tires loose and bring the rpm quickly to something near your redline.   Caution: Much less throttle is necessary with a line-loc to reach your rpm.   (you're don't have to overcome brake drag)

In either case above........ shift to second gear immediately to get higher wheel speed in relation to engine speed.    Maintain the same rpm.   Within a few seconds of seeing smoke off the tires, release the brake pedal (or line-loc) and feather the throttle to avoid over reving.     After moving a few feet, shift to third and let off the gas.   Coast to the starting line and stage.

Do Not stop and attempt to spin the tires again after leaving the water.    Any further spinning of drag tires will remove the rubber compounds you brought to the tire surface from your burnout.

Do Not try to obscure the track with your tire smoke.   More is not better (unless you're in a burnout contest).    You could overheat the tires and actually make traction worse, not to mention shortening the life of your tires.    

Disclaimer:  The procedure above will be slightly different if you have a high powered, drag only car.      And if you have a manual trans......well, I can't help you.  
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cbonito
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Reply #16 on: August 09, 2005, 09:30:18 AM

Yeah I saw that.

Not good!
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MrDestinE
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Reply #17 on: November 27, 2006, 07:47:47 AM

 Nice tips guys.... wish I could use them....  I intend to put a line loc on the truck one day but don't have one at the moment.. my method is to avoid the waterbox, roast the Drag Radials w/o the brakes for the very short time possible so that I do not coast past the stage beam ( the track operators seem to get po ed if I do ) and then stage..    I have the 03 HEMI with the 545RE tranny and the Nazi PCM with the following limitations: IF I try to raise the RPMs against the brake at any time for any reason I will usually cost me 2 tenths due to the PCM pulling fuel or timing... probably both, I have also found thru trial and error that my Drag Radials, Nitto 555R 305/45/18, do NOT like the Waterbox and any form of smokey Burnout... they just get greasy and NO traction whatsoever...  I had heard this about the Nittos before I got them but I selected them on their outside diameter, 28.75 inches, as you cannnot take this tranny into overdrive with the power level ON! Guaranteed to dump the tranny... and I intend to run at least a 125 shot.
 Even with all of these limitations I have generated a 1.948 60' N/A and a 1.827 60' with just a 35 shot...   Stock Converter and 3.92s as well

 just a different point of view....     

 TJ
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dan_k
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Reply #18 on: January 12, 2007, 09:54:31 PM

Ok.   Well I got all that.   Now where are the "Staging Tips"  and the "Launching Tips".    lol


 Very Happy


-Dan
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1992 Dakota Club Cab, Grey, 5.2L V8, Auto, PW, PB, PS, PM, PL, Cruise, A/C, Tilt wheel, rear slider window, 3.55 open diff, Hughes Performance trans, Dynomax Exhaust System, Autolite Platinums, re-located IAT

Future: Front end suspension re-build 'cause bushings are bad, MP PCM, better tires, 3.90 LSD rear, March Performance pulley set, Extang full-tilt tonneu cover
cobra2411
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Reply #19 on: August 24, 2007, 09:19:28 AM

Ok, here are my tips...

#1, street tires, you're absolutely right. No burnouts. Just a quick spin to clean them and go. Now if you can't avoid the box, then spin them till they just start to smoke. Not John Force just start to smoke, the first little hint of tire smoke. And never in the box.

As far as the box goes, if you can, slowly spin the tires 1 revolution in the water. This is pretty much an auto only thing. This wets the tire but keeps water from being sprayed up.

End the burnout out of second gear.

Now for the staging. With an auto I'll drag the brakes into the lights and control it with the gas. With a manual just feather the clutch. Roll into the pre-stage lights and wait. I don't care if you go right to the stage lights, but some people get really pissy about it (ask me how I know...). Once both cars are pre-staged, then roll into the stage lights.

For shallow staging, stop the second the second light goes on. For a deep stage keep going till the pre-stage lights are out and only the stage lights are on. If you're new, try and shallow stage.

Once you see your opponent stage, forget about him and focus on your lights. I can't tell you how many times I cut a 1+ second light because I was watching the other car and not the light. For most beginners focus on the last yellow. When it goes on, GO! By the time you react and the car reacts, the green will be on. Once you get consistent you can work on staging. If you consistently cut a slow light try deep staging.

The launch... There are a lot of variables here. For a street car on street tires here's what I do. I'll bring the engine up to a preset RPM and when the last yellow comes on I let off the brake. The front will  quickly come up, then back down. When it starts to come back up I feed in the gas. That seems to plant the tires pretty well. I try and stay on the edge of tire spin. You may here the tires squealing or howling, but they're not spinning wildly. That seems to be the best way for times.

Shifting. For autos with stock shifters I just leave it in drive. For shifters that I can reliably find gears for I'll try and shift myself. Manuals... Uh... I shift myself Wink

Launch and shift points. This takes time. Keep a log and try and vary only one thing at a time. Try and shift 300-400 RPM's past peak HP. If peak power is 4800, shift at 5100-5200. Even if it pulls hard to 6k, you'll usually run faster shifting at 51-5200. My 93 Cobra pulls clean to 6100, but if I shift there I loose 2 tenths in the 1/4. My routine is launch at 4500, shift at 5100 and go through the lights in 3rd at about 6k. I know I said shift, but I'd be shifting past the 1000' mark and I'd loose time. That's specific to that car. Things like that will show up in the log. When I did mine I started at 4800 and raised the shift points 200 RPMS each time. I launched at the same RPM, did the same burnout, staged the same way... Only thing that changed was shift points. 5k and 5200 were the fastest, so I tested between them and found 5100. I also did the same thing for the launch, for when I adjust timing, tire pressure, staging technique.... I only change one thing, then compare it. Also record temp, air speed, head / tail wind, track condition, humidity, barometric pressure....

Practice practice practice...

David
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David
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1993 Ford Mustang Cobra #2,411/4,997 - 5.0 5spd - 14.18@100mph (stock)
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womanator
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Reply #20 on: September 05, 2007, 07:44:17 PM

Staging the car.Walk up to the car hold out arms,Womanator girl holds out coat,walk into coat,zip up coat,pants and shoes already on.Squeeze into car,Crew chief and another pit crew  strap me in,fold hands in lap.Car pushed up to the line.Owner JANE kisses me one last time.Window net goes up.Take hands out of lap put helmet and gloves on.Crew chiel hits me on the head gives me the thumps up.Engine fires up,go to the water box slowly roll to the front of box,blip throttle to spin tires once roll out of  water box.Crew chief gives me the sign,depress brake,hold line lock down,release brake,bring rpms up to 6500 rpm's,watch crew chief to give me the other sign,release line lock and drive out untill tires grab,let off throttle.Crew lokks over to other lane and gives them the nod and takes out the throttle stop and flips on the primary pump.Roll up to the line and go racing.After winning and at the other end always looking for the Owner Jane Kiss.God life is good when she makes it to the track.
Last Edit: September 06, 2007, 04:46:20 AM by womanator Logged
B1llyw
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Reply #21 on: March 14, 2009, 08:30:30 AM

Popping an interesting older thread back up.
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Bill White - 2017 Ram 1500, 2017 Jeep Compass (new body style), 2017 Challenger SXT Super Trak Pak
B1llyw
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Reply #22 on: November 28, 2018, 04:13:02 PM

Bonus classic thread today!
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Bill White - 2017 Ram 1500, 2017 Jeep Compass (new body style), 2017 Challenger SXT Super Trak Pak
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Bionicdodge.Com | Bionic Tech | Dragstrip Tech (Moderators: B1llyw, 98Dak408) | Topic: Burnout Tips « previous next »
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