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Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  3.9/5.2/5.9 (Moderators: Lynn, 98Dak408)  |  Topic: 3.9 needs a boost 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: 3.9 needs a boost  (Read 352 times)
donram360
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« on: June 23, 2019, 01:16:40 PM »

Yeah I screwed up. Bought a truck with a puny 3.9. does ok at highway speed but needs a bit of help getting there. Other than a swap (that's out) anyone here have any tricks or such to bolt on some get up and go?
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bwdakrt
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« Reply #1 on: June 24, 2019, 01:50:05 AM »

http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/index.php?topic=13957.msg120765#msg120765
« Last Edit: June 24, 2019, 01:51:22 AM by bwdakrt » Logged

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magnumman
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« Reply #2 on: June 26, 2019, 05:04:31 PM »

bwdakrt is correct.  Get more air in and 1.7 ratio roller rockers.  Use the ones I gave you if you didn't use them on something else.
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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
donram360
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« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2019, 10:29:29 AM »

Gotta adjust the trans kickdown a bit, if I don't stop 100% completely it stays in 2nd and even if I stand on it below 20 it won't come Down into 1st. But if I stop completely, it starts off in 1st.   And it has a "chuggle" in 2nd if I'm not too the floor, it briefly hits 3rd for a second then back to 2nd gear for a few hundred more rpm then back into 3rd to stay until time for 4th.
When it starts off in 1st it don't take off too bad.  But when it stays in 2nd  it's a dog.  Runs good though for what it is.
On the set of 1.7s i have,  I have a purpose in mind for those and Will need all 8 cylinders' worth. Was scrolling through eBay looking for a 6 cyl set. Or a v8 set with 1 or 2 screwed up, as long as it has 6 cylinder's worth still good....
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donram360
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« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2019, 12:35:43 PM »

I skimmed thru that article, and remember seeing it in the distant Past.  I have not heard mention of this lately, but I remember lots of talk about "turtles" some years ago (which was mentioned in the article)  with the Magnum engines.... what is a "turtle"  pertaining to these engines and how/ why is it beneficial?  Something I can buy or something to be fabbed up?
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bwdakrt
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« Reply #5 on: June 27, 2019, 01:54:35 PM »

I skimmed thru that article, and remember seeing it in the distant Past.  I have not heard mention of this lately, but I remember lots of talk about "turtles" some years ago (which was mentioned in the article)  with the Magnum engines.... what is a "turtle"  pertaining to these engines and how/ why is it beneficial?  Something I can buy or something to be fabbed up?

The 'turtle' for the 5.9 & 3.9 is one of my creations. After modifying several manifolds by shorting the runners and gasket matching the ports it still bothered me about all the incoming air still swirling around inside I came up with the design to more or less force the air down it's throat and it does.

It will have to be fabed up out of aluminum. If memory serves me right for the 5.9 it's 12.5 in long, 3 in wide at the base and 5 or 5.5 in high. Would be best to measure the height before making one. All the measurements are the same except the length is 9.5 for the 3.9.

Several people turned their nose up and said the 'turtle' was a waste of time but once you've drove one with the turtle installed in a modified intake manifold you don't realize what it can do. 
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donram360
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« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2019, 03:42:05 PM »

wellll… LF caliper locked up while I was on my way to see if I might be able to get this turd an alignment....  they were busy but it was like a buckboard all the way home on a smooth road and now I can see every fin location on the outside friction surface, as if someone drew them with a Sharpie. I have a receipt from a couple months ago, from the PO having spent $240 to have pads and rotors installed..... this thing started pulsating the 3rd day I had it.... now I know why.  New Dakota brake pads are some of the thickest I have ever pulled from a box, but these are ashy and charred and both driver side pads are cracked in 2 places all the way to the backing plate.... pulled them off and guess what... they say "Duralast" on them.... so now I get to re replace the pads and rotors plus the calipers and hoses besides...… I would have thought that the jokers that gouged them for $800 to replace all the steel lines on this truck not all that long ago would have replaced them too after charging so damn much but noooo….

Im guessing this might have a little to do with this truck's dogginess, besides being built 2 cylinders short under the hood.... I do have the 318 out of the 92 sitting here that was a running pull,  and I just got me a 360 with 136K claimed miles..... but I don't want to torture test a 42RE just yet
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donram360
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« Reply #7 on: August 12, 2019, 12:07:47 PM »

Yeah it needs a boost for sure. Just got back from Ohio and 4 days of camping, towed my popup camper with it, it Needs a Tim Taylor treatment.
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magnumman
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« Reply #8 on: August 12, 2019, 04:59:19 PM »

A new double roller timing chain probably wouldn't hurt on a old 3.9, maybe a tensioner as well if you have time.  For mine when it was new, myself and my dad only used cheap 10w/40 and it had 287,000 miles zero rebuilds when I sold it.  Autolite 3923 spark plugs work well on that motor with quality cap/rotor/wires and a good coil.  Check for plenum leaks.  Check for possibly clogged catalytic converter "this happened to me", mine was dog until I cut it off.  I used a stock replacement k&n filter and cut off the housing sides and tube to make an old fashioned air hat.  I also cut the intake runners back on it.  Cleaning the injectors may also help.

For the the transmission issue, check out this link to see if it helps.  -------->  http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/Dodge_Ram_Truck_Transmission_Adjustment.pdf

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2001 Ram QC 1500: 360cid, 2wd, K+N CAI, SCT tune, Autolite AP3923\'s, MP 1.7 rollers, MP pushrods, SST rims, Hypertech coil, 10.2mm wires, Gibson super truck exhaust, 3\" magnaflow cat, modified Y pipe, modified kegger, 3.92 LSD, MSD-6, Transgo shift kit, 4.7L Injectors, Hipotek 52mm TB, (Currently under construction for a 408 build)

POS Chevy Trailblazer 4x4, the 4x4 is the only good part. This is my Son's truck now.

2007 Chrysler 300 2.7L "Wifes car" No complaints other than it slow.

2012 Ram 5.7 Hemi Outdoorsman, 4x4, LSD, Air Bag Suspension.
donram360
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« Reply #9 on: August 13, 2019, 12:34:25 PM »

Cat is brand New about 6500 miles ago, found receipt from the past owner in glove box. Freshly tuned about 6000 ago, cap rotor wires and plugs, pulled cap to verify, haven't pulled a boot off of a plugs yet to see what brand they used, I know the wires are useless zone ones. Plenum didn't look that bad, not terrible on gas mileage just a dog.
Ill have to check out that link on the trans thing later (gotta mow before dark)  but more than anything I think its that my last 3 in a row have had 318s in them, haven't had a 3.9 in a while.... like 7 years or so....   it probably aint terrible "for what it is"..... when we looked at it while considering buying it I let the wife drive it, and she "liked it".... (she says the pep aint that bad....  but I just want more)
I figured Id be losing dome by dropping from an 8 to a 6 but just wasn't quite expecting "this" much....     was hoping that dropping from a V8 with 226k miles to a 6 with 105k might make up for a bit of that....
I know that going from an 87-96 to a next gen is part of it/ the 97+ weigh more (at least before they rot out)   
since 6/1. we have put over 5K miles on this truck..... including 2 trips to Ohio (one of which was empty, the other had a popup camper on the hitch behind it) and a trip to extreme southern IL in between (wife and mother in law..... no room there for me, even if it were a limo, haha....last time I took mother in law down there to family reunion,  she made a 4-1/2 to 5 hour trip into 8 hours plus..... one way...… stop every other exit for pee breaks...… you get the idea.....I can make it there without a stop, or at worst maybe 1...….. not multiple.

and that 5k+ miles so far was with it sitting in the garage "undriveable" for 2 weeks after I hit a deer, while I waited for parts..... would be over 6k miles to date without that 2 weeks of sitting
« Last Edit: August 13, 2019, 01:52:46 PM by donram360 » Logged
donram360
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« Reply #10 on: August 13, 2019, 02:06:47 PM »

oh and on the timing chain idea.... truck currently sits at 110K miles.... I have a pile of receipts from 52k miles back in 2002 til I bought it.... at 86K it had a water pump, and then at 91k, it had T chain cover gaskets (and water pump had to come off again in that process)  and crank seal but no record of a chain.... and neither time they had the water pump off did they change the hoses.... idiots.... they had them off so it would have been no more labor to put new on.... discovered (and corrected) that stupidity when I replaced the radiator after the deer strike.... its unbelieveable, all the times this guy took the truck in, and they never did any of the "might as wells" while they had it....

it was aligned 2k miles before I bought it (that's 3 years ago) TWICE in a month.... the idiots charged the PO both times.... 1st thing I did when I got it was to check the front end... 3 of 4 ball joints were SHOT... no way they could do a good alignment in that condition, they didn't go from "acceptable" to "ready to fall out over 3 years of mostly sitting.... and when I got it aligned it was WAY outta whack....   
I got it from a "family friend" of this guy's, they had it exactly 3 months, and put ~500 miles on it.... and took it into a shop for a "post purchase inspection".... and paid $800 for that tuneup, 2 valve cover gaskets and front brakes/rotors to be done.....  and they never said anything about the sloppy ball joints either.... weird considering how well known these trucks were for that issue....   AND THEN within 500 miles of me getting the truck the LF caliper locked up solid...…


speaking of "might as wells" that should have been done while the PO had it,   the 1st guy spent $800 to have ALL of the steel brake lines replaced.... talk about "over the coals"..... they replaced the wheel cylinders but none of the flex hoses..... he got hosed……..

Seeing how well this truck had been maintained over the past 17 years and all the receipts I found hidden in the owners manual for proof, plus the $840 receipt that at the time was only 275 miles "old" for the brakes, tuneup, etc   actually was the "deciding factor" that made me decide to buy the truck...…. besides my wife's "liking it".... 2 trans services and 2 tuneups in that time, complete exhaust (all but the Y pipe)   over the years and 4, yes 4, serpentine belts and 3 tensioners over 17 years..... that's what happens when the shop uses the "cheap grade".....
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