Bionicdodge.Com
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
August 23, 2019, 10:16:30 PM

Login with username, password and session length
Search:     Advanced search
   

99215 Posts in 14249 Topics by 2137 Members
Latest Member: ssteve/t
* Home Help Search Gallery Calendar Login Register
Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  Street Tires, Suspension & Chassis (Moderators: donram360, adamsredlines)  |  Topic: Dakota Viper Brake Conversion 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5 Go Down Print
Author Topic: Dakota Viper Brake Conversion  (Read 23935 times)
98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« on: November 13, 2007, 03:09:52 PM »

Going to start the Viper Brake conversion on my '98 R/T in the next few days.  The parts include:

Sidewinder Customs conversion kit: Darren was very prompt and available.  (Special thanks to mtlcafan79 for bringing this to my attention.)
Wheel adapters from Fred Goeske of Wheeladapter:  Very prompt.
Longer wheel studs from Summit: 3 days.  Necessary for front wheel adapters that allow to run stock 17" R/T wheels.
Rotors from R1 Concepts (Ebay):  Pretty quick.  Cheapest I could find.  I may regret it but I can always get new ones when they wear out.
Calipers from R & J Distributing:  Took almost 5 weeks due to seals on back order.  R & J specified they supplied pads along with the calipers but they didn't say they were used pads, and in my mind unuseable.  (I wasn't born yesterday but certainly not before Gord.  Very Happy)

My first questions is: How do I replace the pads in the front and rear calipers?

1. Front: Use a punch and just tap them out?
2. Rear: Not sure.  ??

Any information will be appreciated.

Pics:
1. Worn pads
2. Rotor size
3. Rotor size
4. Front caliper
5. Rear caliper



* PB130172.JPG (120.1 KB, 640x480 - viewed 696 times.)

* PB130179.JPG (98.08 KB, 640x480 - viewed 909 times.)

* pb130178 (2).jpg (79.28 KB, 480x640 - viewed 742 times.)

* PB130176.JPG (98.75 KB, 640x480 - viewed 645 times.)

* PB130175.JPG (103.8 KB, 640x480 - viewed 556 times.)
Logged

98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2007, 03:26:30 PM »

Clarification:

Quote
My first questions is: How do I replace the pads in the front and rear calipers?

1. Front: Use a punch and just tap them out?
2. Rear: Not sure.  ??

How do I remove the pins in order to replace the pads?
Logged

NXNLINE
Site Donor
Bionic Senior
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 371



« Reply #2 on: November 13, 2007, 04:29:05 PM »

Hey pal, use a small punch to knock out lockng pins, there is a collar that collapse when you tap them back in, remember in case you did not know the bleeder valves mount upward! The same for the rears, not hard, you will love the brakes, I love mine!
Logged

WILL RACE FOR FOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #3 on: November 13, 2007, 04:45:42 PM »

Thanks man!

Quote
...remember in case you did not know the bleeder valves mount upward[/quote  I would have guessed that they pointed down.
Logged

RR
Bionic Newbie

Offline Offline

Posts: 30


« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2007, 06:22:57 AM »

How thick are the spacers for the front? I'm planning a brake upgrade but will use C5 Vette calipers which won't require spacers(I think) and Viper rotors. I've had the calipers and rotors for over a year but havn't gotten the required 03 spindles yet. Do you know if the 98 hubs can be used on the 03 spindles?
Logged

98 Dak RC Sport, 5.2 5sp, 3.92 SG, Vortech S Trim, Dual stage water/alky inj, Crane HI-6R, MSD wires, MP Headers, R/T OE catback, Lowered 2-4, R/T rear swaybar, AirLift SlamAir.
98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2007, 03:31:09 PM »

The kit I have came with new steering knuckles so I don't know if the spacers will tell you much.  The caliper bracket is 1/2 " thick and the spacers are 1/2" thick.

I have a question for NXNLINE: What did you do with the front brake line in order to keep it from flapping in the breeze when you did your Viper conversion?


* pb150180 (2).jpg (93.06 KB, 480x640 - viewed 1046 times.)

* PB150181.JPG (98.95 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1186 times.)

* PB150182.JPG (115.63 KB, 640x480 - viewed 777 times.)
Logged

98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2007, 03:34:16 PM »

Also NXNLINE, did you use dust covers with your Viper upgrade?  The stock Dak dust covers don't fit my new knuckles.
Logged

NXNLINE
Site Donor
Bionic Senior
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 371



« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2007, 03:53:03 PM »

hey pal, sorry been on devilbrad last couple of days, I drilled holes in the upper control arm and used ty wraps to keep it from rubbing on the tire, I also did not use the dust shield, my kit was the original designed by GSM and my bracket for the caliper used the holes for the dust cover to secure it, they had a problem with the bolts breaking due to the size of the existing bolt holes, so I bolted the bracket up and had it welded to the spindles, no cumming loose here, hey if you need anythig or need to reach me for questions here is my number 904-477-2194, name is tom
Logged

WILL RACE FOR FOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2007, 05:09:26 PM »

Thanks Tom!  Will do.

Richard
Logged

98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2007, 02:16:41 PM »

Spent the day trying to press in new wheel studs into the front hubs so I can use the wheels spacers that are necessary to run the stock 17" R/T wheels.  The instruction sheet calls for either ARP 3" studs (#ARP-100-7703) or Moroso 3" studs (#MOR-46180).  I first bought the ARP and they are too big in knurl diameter.  So I ran out and bought the Moroso which show a smaller knurl diameter.  Still seemed too big but difficult to get an accurate measurement of the OD of the knurl portion of the stud, as well the ID of the hole in the hub, because the stock stud I pounded out created serrations in the hole.

Used my dad’s 20 ton press and maxed out the press without getting the stud in all the way.  (I even placed the studs in the freezer to shrink ‘em a bit.)The stud actually displaced the metal in the hub.  (Not good.)  Obviously the studs knurl diameter is too big.  Called SideWinder Customs a few times and finally found out that I need Moroso part # MOR-46185.  While I was on the phone calling around my father determined that the studs were .074 larger than the hole.  Then, I drove all over the Detroit area trying to find 3 packages of 5 studs since no one had all three, if they had any at all.  Now I’ve spent approximately $120.00 for 12 freaking studs.  (Is there a cloud hanging over my head or what?)

I'll try again tomorrow.
Logged

98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #10 on: November 17, 2007, 06:23:36 AM »

The new stud (MOR-46185) pressed in easy enough but noticed the head diameter s smaller than the stock unit and the first two studs (ARP-100-7703 and MOR-46180) where the knurl is too large.  The newest stud (MOR-46185) also has a taller knurl portion than the thickness of the hub.  I thought about drilling out the holes in the hub so either stud  (ARP-100-7703 or MOR-46180) but my father thinks they may have been broached when done at the factory.  (He is a retired automotive engineer.)

Does anyone think there would be a problem using the MOR-46185 stud?  What about drilling the hub holes to fit either ARP-100-7703 or MOR-46180 studs with simply a drill in a drill press?  Would that be okay?

Will see if rotor fits on hub with (MOR-46185) stud and decide if it's okay to go that way or whether I need to modify the hub.

Will also see if there are any other studs out there.
Logged

98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #11 on: November 17, 2007, 06:30:59 AM »

I'm worried that if the head of the stud is smaller than the recessed portion of the hub, it may not carry the load properly.
Logged

98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #12 on: November 17, 2007, 08:10:49 AM »

The MOR-46185 stud isn't going to work.  It restricts the rotor from fitting properly against the hub.
Logged

98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #13 on: November 17, 2007, 08:18:52 AM »

Drilling the hub isn't going to be easy:

1.  Determining the proper drill and reamer size,
2. The drill speed is going to have to be extremely slow,
3. Indexing the spacing properly is going to be a challenge,
4. And making sure the drill doesn't walk in the existing hole.

Going to have to give this some thought.
« Last Edit: November 17, 2007, 08:19:25 AM by 98Dak408 » Logged

98Dak408
Site Donor
Administrator
Bionic Wh0re!
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 5320



WWW
« Reply #14 on: November 17, 2007, 08:30:32 AM »

I might see if I can tap the existing holes and use a screw-in wheel stud.
Logged

Bionicdodge.Com
Advertisement
Thanks to the following sponsor
   

 Logged
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5 Go Up Print 
Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  Street Tires, Suspension & Chassis (Moderators: donram360, adamsredlines)  |  Topic: Dakota Viper Brake Conversion « previous next »
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!