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Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  Street Tires, Suspension & Chassis (Moderators: donram360, adamsredlines)  |  Topic: Dakota Viper Brake Conversion 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Dakota Viper Brake Conversion  (Read 23936 times)
98Dak408
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« Reply #30 on: November 19, 2007, 01:58:11 PM »

After putting new steering knuckles on, both front tires are pointing toward each other some amount.  (It's like snow plowing your way down a ski slope.)  Not too happy that wheels stick out of fender wells a bit in the front (but I knew this might be a problem using the wheel spacers).  Also, with the thicker rotor in back, the stock wheel stud length may be questionable.

Went to start truck to test brakes and the battery was dead.    It's charging.
« Last Edit: November 19, 2007, 01:59:19 PM by 98Dak408 » Logged

RR
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« Reply #31 on: November 19, 2007, 04:18:35 PM »

While the battery charges, you can set the toe with a tape measure and some straight edges. Other than toe, I wouldn't think your alignment would have changed much if at all. Depending on how much you're lowered and tire size, I'd be concerned about tire to fender-flare clearance. I know mine make contact if I hit a good size bump.
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98 Dak RC Sport, 5.2 5sp, 3.92 SG, Vortech S Trim, Dual stage water/alky inj, Crane HI-6R, MSD wires, MP Headers, R/T OE catback, Lowered 2-4, R/T rear swaybar, AirLift SlamAir.
98Dak408
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« Reply #32 on: November 19, 2007, 04:30:48 PM »

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...you can set the toe with a tape measure and some straight edges.

I'm not sure how I would reference straight... and how much to adjust out? 

Quote
...I'd be concerned about tire to fender-flare clearance.

I'm not sure about the tire clearance either.  Don't have the cash for new wheels and tires!
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98Dak408
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« Reply #33 on: November 20, 2007, 04:25:20 AM »

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I'm not sure how I would reference straight... and how much to adjust out?

I suppose I would need a straight edge on each front wheel where I can take measurements to the front and back of the front wheels, side to side.  With the steering wheel centered, I would adjust the toe-out until the measurements front and back are the same? 

Easier said than done.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2007, 04:37:01 AM by 98Dak408 » Logged

RR
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« Reply #34 on: November 20, 2007, 09:37:37 AM »

The way I did it was with 4  3' long pieces of 1" square tube jammed up against the side of each tire, parallel to the ground and centered. I used jackstands tilted to keep the sq tube securely against the tire. Looking through the tubing (rear to front), I adjusted the toe until it appeared perfectly straight. When you adjust the toe, be sure to adj equal amounts on each side to keep the steering wheel centered. Then lower the tubes on the front tires so that you can measure end to end across the underside the truck. Hook the tape measure on the end of one tube and measure to the other side. Do this in front and in back of the tubing to check the difference. Adjust til the front of the tires are pointed inward about 1/8"-3/16". Hope that all make sense.
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98 Dak RC Sport, 5.2 5sp, 3.92 SG, Vortech S Trim, Dual stage water/alky inj, Crane HI-6R, MSD wires, MP Headers, R/T OE catback, Lowered 2-4, R/T rear swaybar, AirLift SlamAir.
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« Reply #35 on: November 20, 2007, 12:07:03 PM »

Thanks RR! 

I went out to adjust the toe and realized that the camber was way off also.  At 15 mph with emergency flashers on, the tires squealed all the way to Belle Tire.  The caster was off too and they hit me up for another $70.00 to adjust the passenger side upper control arm but still couldn't get the caster to spec. 

I ended up with:  -0.5 camber; 5.8 caster; and .04 toe.  Caster is not within spec of 3.2-4.6.  I hope it doesn't cause me any problem.
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98Dak408
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« Reply #36 on: November 20, 2007, 12:11:57 PM »

So far the brakes feel okay.  It's raining so I haven't been able to test the brakes that much.  I think they'll grab better when the pads/rotor wear in a bit and seat themselves.

With the alignment, the tires don't stick out so far in the front and are more tolerable for me.

Pic 1 and 2: Side profile of front tire with 5/8 spacer.
Pic 3: Passenger side rear.
Pic 4: Driver side front.


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« Last Edit: November 20, 2007, 12:15:49 PM by 98Dak408 » Logged

RR
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« Reply #37 on: November 20, 2007, 12:19:14 PM »

Additional castor makes for more straight line stability at the expense of eagerness to turn.
Look's kinda good with the wide track. What size tires you running?
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98 Dak RC Sport, 5.2 5sp, 3.92 SG, Vortech S Trim, Dual stage water/alky inj, Crane HI-6R, MSD wires, MP Headers, R/T OE catback, Lowered 2-4, R/T rear swaybar, AirLift SlamAir.
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« Reply #38 on: November 20, 2007, 12:23:47 PM »

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Additional castor makes for more straight line stability at the expense of eagerness to turn.

I guess it's okay because I can't tell any difference so far. 

Quote
Look's kinda good with the wide track. What size tires you running?

I'm running Nitto 275/50/R17 front and back.
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NXNLINE
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« Reply #39 on: November 20, 2007, 12:53:40 PM »

Dodge did say wider is better!! Laughing Looks good, I am sure the brakes need to break in and you will feel the difference!!
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WILL RACE FOR FOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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« Reply #40 on: November 24, 2007, 07:57:04 AM »

Now that the pads are wearing a bit, and are contacting the rotor with greater surface area, the brakes are starting to feel much better.   
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RR
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« Reply #41 on: November 24, 2007, 07:59:22 AM »

How's the pedal firmness?
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98 Dak RC Sport, 5.2 5sp, 3.92 SG, Vortech S Trim, Dual stage water/alky inj, Crane HI-6R, MSD wires, MP Headers, R/T OE catback, Lowered 2-4, R/T rear swaybar, AirLift SlamAir.
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« Reply #42 on: November 24, 2007, 09:08:45 AM »

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How's the pedal firmness?

It's firm. 
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RATTLER360
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« Reply #43 on: November 26, 2007, 11:53:19 AM »

how much total for the whole project
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98Dak408
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« Reply #44 on: November 26, 2007, 12:10:19 PM »

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how much total for the whole project

This is basically what it cost:

Quote
Here's the skinny:

Sidewinders Viper brake kit for front and rear:  aprox $1300.00
Rebuilt calipers powdercoated red from R&J Distributing:  aprox $1030.00
Viper rotors (all 4) and pads from R1 Concepts (Ebay): aprox $260.00
Front wheel adapter (if running stock R/T 17" wheels) from Fred Goeske:  aprox $150.00
Longer wheel studs for wheel adapters from Summit Racing: aprox $40.00

Total aprox $2780.00.

You could spend a lot more!

You could have spent a lot more if, for instance, you bought new calipers and rotors from the dealer...and bought new 18" - 20" wheels and tires.  Also not included was the 2-3 large containers of brake fluid to bleed the brakes.  You might also need new ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.

You will find more information on this in the following thread: http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/index.php?topic=6358.0

And also in this thread: http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/index.php?topic=6665.0

« Last Edit: November 26, 2007, 12:11:30 PM by 98Dak408 » Logged

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