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Bionicdodge.Com  |  Bionic Tech  |  Street Tires, Suspension & Chassis (Moderators: donram360, adamsredlines)  |  Topic: Dakota Viper Brake Conversion 0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic. « previous next »
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Author Topic: Dakota Viper Brake Conversion  (Read 23938 times)
98Dak408
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« Reply #45 on: November 27, 2007, 03:16:53 PM »

Oh yeah, if you want parking brakes, you need the cable from Sidewinder for about $220.00.
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98Dak408
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« Reply #46 on: December 07, 2007, 02:01:06 PM »

The brakes feel real good now.  I am happy!   Very Happy
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RR
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« Reply #47 on: December 07, 2007, 04:48:14 PM »

Good to hear.
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« Reply #48 on: December 08, 2007, 03:05:06 AM »

I would like to do something like this to my dakota and jeep..
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98Dak408
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« Reply #49 on: December 08, 2007, 04:10:00 AM »

If you can scrape up the $$, it does make a difference.  Just think if you didn't use the front wheel spacers and had to buy new wheels and tires in addition though?  $$$$$$
« Last Edit: December 08, 2007, 04:11:04 AM by 98Dak408 » Logged

Salarguy
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« Reply #50 on: December 11, 2007, 02:21:39 AM »

There's a complete SRT-10 D-60 4.56 rear axle, caliper to caliper on eBay for $1399 Buy It Now If anyones interested 1K miles. Seems like a deal.
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Women should put pictures of their missing husbands on beer cans. If drinking and driving is illegal, why do bars have parking lots?
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« Reply #51 on: December 11, 2007, 11:31:55 AM »

Quote
Seems like a deal.

Sure does!
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Richie
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« Reply #52 on: December 11, 2007, 11:37:42 AM »

too bad i'm broke
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Big a** supercharged 4.7L HO, cammed, Custom made Supercharger COG drive system, 72mm F&B throttle body, ROSS ceramic coated pistons, Billet H beam rods, 1st set of race prepped big valves heads W/ behive springs, Custom one off sheet metal intake, Modified Edelbrock Mustang intake elbow, ATI super dampner, 3,000 Edge racing billet stall converter, meth injected, SCT tuned, 60# injectors, Aeromotive Eliminator fuel pump, Aeromotive -12 Fuel Filter, Boost reference FPR, Custom fuel cell, Braided stainless line and AN fittings, Aeromotive Billet fuel controller,  2 bar map, Turbo Smart Race Port BOV, 180d* T stat, True dual exhuast, Built tranny W/ deep trans pan, built transfer case, 275 60 R17 rubber.
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« Reply #53 on: December 14, 2007, 01:43:12 PM »

does that axle include the cost of cutting it down???
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Gabe Couriel

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Red 4x2 CC Dakota Sport- V6, 5-spd, 3.90 LSD, CAI, V8 TB, Superchips Programmer, ASP Crank Pulley, JBA Headers & Y-Pipe, Magnaflow Cat-back, B/W Cap & Rotor, MSD Wires, Autolite 3923 Plugs, 180deg. Thermo., Hurst Shifter, Poly Bushings and Monroe Reflex Shocks all around.
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« Reply #54 on: December 14, 2007, 02:50:57 PM »

It bolts right in a Ram, except the cute little upper track bar! HeHeHe!
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Women should put pictures of their missing husbands on beer cans. If drinking and driving is illegal, why do bars have parking lots?
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« Reply #55 on: December 14, 2007, 03:46:36 PM »

Dontcha just love those covers??? Imagine--POLISHED!
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Women should put pictures of their missing husbands on beer cans. If drinking and driving is illegal, why do bars have parking lots?
98Dak408
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« Reply #56 on: February 18, 2009, 08:24:38 AM »

Quote
So far the brakes feel okay.  It's raining so I haven't been able to test the brakes that much.  I think they'll grab better when the pads/rotor wear in a bit and seat themselves.
I've been driving the vehicle for a little while now and I still think the brakes should stop a little better.  The pedal is firm.  I've been wondering about the brake pads I got with the cheap rotor kit from R1 Concepts (Ebay).  Bigger brakes should work better if set up and adjusted properly. 

Last night I put the new Yukon axles in the rear diff and hooked everything back up.  I started the engine, and put it in gear to see if the axles flanges were turning true with the wheels off.  Looks good.  Then I hit the brakes.  Pedal firm, but the rear rotors are still turning a bit, even with the engine at idling.  

I might try getting the brake lines power bled.  If that doesn't do it, I'm thinking I may need a proportioning valve to balance front-to-back.  However, Darren at Sidewinder Customs told me the front-to-rear bias was pretty good stock.  I may call him and ask about that.  I don't want to run off half-cocked changing things I don't have to.

Contrary to popluar beleif, the rear brakes do help quite a bit.  My '90 dak felt the same way when the rear brakes weren't working properly.  I rebuilt/replaced the rear brakes and it stops great now.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2009, 08:27:54 AM by 98Dak408 » Logged

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« Reply #57 on: February 18, 2009, 08:36:37 AM »

Although I'm not actively promoting this Richard. I've been driving the Ram for 4 years with inactive RWABS. When I swapped the one ton wheel cylinders in the ABS was a little too sensitive. I pulled the ABS fuse and voila brakes that could put you through the windshield. I have never had an issue with them other then the wee light glowing constantly under a layer of black electric tape that uou can't notice at all. I never did agree with a truck telling me how hard to press the brake. I don't know if it will function with AWABS BTW.
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Women should put pictures of their missing husbands on beer cans. If drinking and driving is illegal, why do bars have parking lots?
98Dak408
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« Reply #58 on: February 18, 2009, 08:58:03 AM »

Thanks Gord, I'll keep that in mind.

Just got off the phone with Darren at Sidewinder.  He told me to be sure the rear brakes are bled well.  He did say that his truck stops well but some others have had some question about the front-to-rear bias.

He told me that there is some kind of (I forget what it is called but I'll look it up), perhaps proportioning block directly after the master cylinder, and some guys pull out the spring at the back for better response of the rear brakes.  He did say that some have done that and the rears grab too well (maybe putting the vehicle into a skid).

He told me to activate the rear brakes via the hand brake and see if they work mechanically.  (Why didn't I think of that?)

If all else fails, I may consider a proportioning valve.
« Last Edit: February 18, 2009, 09:27:37 AM by 98Dak408 » Logged

rtxpres
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« Reply #59 on: February 18, 2009, 10:03:14 AM »


He told me to activate the rear brakes via the hand brake and see if they work mechanically.  (Why didn't I think of that?)

If all else fails, I may consider a proportioning valve.


Does the hand brake activate your rear pads or drum type brakes inside your rotor?

AFAIK, a proportioning valve can only reduce pressure to the rear brakes, not increase it.    Think about it.    Smile
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